It's a Shimano 105 Crank 50/39 (smaller front gear) for $69.99. 70% off.
I didn't want to lose the 2mph on top (You know how much I love sprinting. lol ) but honestly, I wasn't spinning out the 53 that I'm running now and this may help me in the hills so I can learn to run the bigger gear. If I was lucky I was doing 100 rpm on the 53. If I can bang out 110 to 120 on the 50 then I can make up any lost speed.
I bought the 175mm Crank since I'm inseam challenged. I'm still running the stock 9spd in the rear. It's 12/26 but I will probably buy the 10spd 11/23 when I get my fitness up to where I like it.
I also switched to clipless pedals and picked up some Shimano Shoes. I should have everything in a couple of days.
Dude, if you were a chick, you'd have more shoes than Imelda Marcos!
You really love to accessorize! I thought you were a true student from the Bayliss school/mentality of competition in which Troy shows up on a "Big Wheel" plastic trike wearing sweats and construction boots and smokes all the expensively well equipped, spandex clad poseurs.
Dude, if you were a chick, you'd have more shoes than Imelda Marcos!
You really love to accessorize! I thought you were a true student from the Bayliss school/mentality of competition in which Troy shows up on a "Big Wheel" plastic trike wearing sweats and construction boots and smokes all the expensively well equipped, spandex clad poseurs.
50/34 with an 11-25 cassette is perfect. It'll get you over almost anything, so that's good for you to build up fitness. If I recall, a 50/11 is bigger than a 53/12 so you're not far off top-end wise.
When I started out, I raced a whole season on a 50/34 with an 11/23 and it was fine; now I train on a 53/39 with an 11/23 and race using an 11-25 cassette - this helps get my phat ass over the climbs so I can be there at the end.
50/34 with an 11-25 cassette is perfect. It'll get you over almost anything, so that's good for you to build up fitness. If I recall, a 50/11 is bigger than a 53/12 so you're not far off top-end wise.
When I started out, I raced a whole season on a 50/34 with an 11/23 and it was fine; now I train on a 53/39 with an 11/23 and race using an 11-25 cassette - this helps get my phat ass over the climbs so I can be there at the end.
As always: it's just about riding the bike.
Dude!!! 53/11 is MONSTROUS! hahahahahahha Can you even walk the next morning?!
Back when I use to ride real hard code I use to run 53/42 with 175mm cranks on a Merlin Titanium. 53/39 for me was just a bit of a jump. I was a sprinter/crit specialist. My team would haul me up for the sprints, win the primes and then I would fall back to domestic duties.
I'm amazed at who well the the "lower end" stuff has gotten.
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Current Ride:
2006 Ducati 999S Mono in black.
There are a couple races where I spin that gear out on the decent .
Some time I use it to do muscle tension workouts; real low cadence, to help work on pedal stroke.
I'm going to try that.
I've got a bit of bad news.
I was feeling light headed in my workouts and it came down to my diet. For endurance training Sodium is a critical part of nutrition. Since I was trying to get all ripped up in the abs, quads, and back, I eliminated sodium from my diet so I could keep my water retention low.
Problem is, whenever I would do intense Cardio like my 50 mile sunday morning ride I would barely survive and my riding buddy (who happens to be in his 40s) would smoke me badly. lol Talk about humble pie.
So now that I'm consuming sodium again, I've got more ooomph for my workouts but my weight is creeping back up. A couple days ago when I checked I was 228lbs. Jeez I'm a fatty! But boy can I sprint!
I gotta figure out how to tweak my diet so I can get back around 200-205 lean, and most importantly, healthy without sacrificing performance in my workouts.
That's a carbon faring over a standard box shaped rim.
Look at Rol wheels, if you want to soften the ride, you need a full carbon rim
Otherwise, get a pair of Mavic Open Pros, lace em up with some Dura Ace hubs, 32 spokes, 3X lacing and you're set.
You get a soft ride with lower spoke tension, if you have more spokes, you have lower tension hence a more plush ride.
Thanks Hubert. But I'm not sure I'm ready for Tubulars yet. What do you think?
Would I miss the ease of a clincher if I switched to Tubular? The Rol's make a clincher to for the same price as their tubular but the FlashPoints are still more economically priced. What say you?
They are heavier but they are durable, have a high rear spoke count (24) and they are full carbon. They got pretty good reviews too. They are priced very attractively.
The Williams wheels are legit; great company to boot. 24 spokes is the minimum for a guy your size
I just chimed in because I wanted to clear up the misconception that those wheels you originally looked at were carbon and would soften up the ride - neither of which is true. I just didn't want you to waste your money and be disappointed.
For a race wheel, I use the Mavic Cosmic Carbone (this was before full carbon clinchers were available) and they're fine but they're stiff and I've cracked a rear (weight 189 lbs)
As for clincher v tubular it's like asking which oil is best; everyone has an opinion. Personally, I prefer clinchers for ease of use. People will argue that tubies are just as easy to flat repair but I don't see how. Also, with tubular people get into aging tires, the art of gluing , etc etc If I was on a pro team, I'd run tubies because I'd have a mechanic. Since I'm a pro-wannabe nobody, I run clinchers. The tubular tires are also about twice as expensive v. clincher tires.
PS: Valve extenders are a pain in the butt; shop around for some tubes with 80mm valves and you'll have plenty of valve sticking out to use a floor pump w/out the trouble of a valve extender.
The Williams wheels are legit; great company to boot. 24 spokes is the minimum for a guy your size
You don't know how happy this makes me. When I pressed "checkout" I was hoping that I wouldn't regret it. lol
Quote:
Originally Posted by hubert
PS: Valve extenders are a pain in the butt; shop around for some tubes with 80mm valves and you'll have plenty of valve sticking out to use a floor pump w/out the trouble of a valve extender.
Thanks for the tip. I'll check and see if the local Bike shop has some 80mm valves. The longest I have now is 60mm.
I'm amped! UPS ground was like $32 because they're coming all the way from California. 2 day was like $100. hahahhahahahahhaha
On another note, when I rode with my friend he said that I was like a sail and he didn't have to even pedal when he was behind me. lol He's like 180lbs and 6,2.
So One thing I noticed about his Bianchi is that his handlebars are about 3-4 inches narrower than mine.
I think I want to go narrow as well. Do you have any preferences? I'd like to reduce frontal area as much as possible without buying aero bars.
I'm going to have to start charging by the hour for these consults.
Anyway, you're a good draft because you're a big guy. Handlebar width is determined by your shoulder size and spacing, if you go too narrow you'll create issues at the base of your neck and back. You'll be making a minuscule improvement in "frontal area," while causing a fit issue that will make riding your bike for any extended period of time impossible.
Personally, I run a 44cm (center to center) bar. And I'm 6'2", size 38 chest. If you want to get "more aero" learn to ride in your drops more; if you can't ride in your drops for a sustained period of time, your position on the bike (reach or drop) needs adjusting.
I'm putting you on probation from here on out; stop buying stuff for the next month (at least) and RIDE YOUR BIKE.
PS: If you put aero bars on your road bike, you'll never live down the TOTAL FRED status that will earn you. Don't do it.
HUBERT!!!! (and other Cyclists)
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