I am thinking I might decide to keep the RC after all lol
I already have M4 cans on the bike, would getting a full system be worth anything? If so, how much? And how loud are these bikes with the full system? Annoying loud?
"with this twin Slip-ons are satisfactory for street riding & I only recommend Full Systems if you intend to do internal engine modifications such as pistons & cams etc..."
Re: Full exhaust worth it over already having cans? (dhdrider)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dhdrider »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">http://www.rc51.org/exhaust.htm
"with this twin Slip-ons are satisfactory for street riding & I only recommend Full Systems if you intend to do internal engine modifications such as pistons & cams etc..."
</TD></TR></TABLE>
and that will continue to be there until Sato makes a full system
nevermind the fact that any number of full systems weigh less and provide comparable power. Sato has a midrange advantage, most of the others produce better top-ends and peak numbers.
That's a great question that isn't brought up often.
In my opinion, there really is only a handfull of slip on systems that are worth a crap, and even fewer full systems.
If you want the best possible performace, then you really need to consider the entire intake/engine/exhaust combo. It has to all work together. This means that you can't just haphazardly start picking various pieces and expect the combo to work at its best.
It comes down to what each piece was designed for. In the case of the infamous Sato slip ons, they've been desinged around a mostly stock combo (i'm assuming here), maximizing what power is already there. And boy do they do an outstanding job of it.
Full systems, on the other hand, "should" be desinged around a higher out-put scenario and probably wouldn't be able to offer the same umph as the Satos on a stock bike. Conversly, a properly designed full system should out perform a good slip on when outright power output has been raised.
If you aren't considering engine mods, then you simply cannot beat the Satos. A full system may get you close, but ultimately you'd be running a mis-matched combo.
If you are considering a full combo then you need to start researching. See what others are using with what results. See what the high-end tuners are using. And i mean the "entire" combo, from intake to exhaust tip.
Midrange is what it's all about as that's where the engine spends most of its time. Peak hp is much less important, but still important. More midrange means more "useable" power - anytime, anywhere - power. Ultimately, you want a combo that produces a smooth hp/torque curve with the most possible area under the curve gained over stock, not just 10 hp at redline.
FWIW my yosh full has been nothing but perfect for the past three years. i have had no remap or custom just a guru lou sato 11 map and it rocks from 5000 up. I have not had the satos to feel what they are like at 5000 and at max rpms but the yosh has been nothing but fantastic and affordable, say i paid $700 for the headers and a few for my cans. I will be taking the headers off this winter for a flat black jet hot treatment mostly for heat and looks.
mrgrn, I have Sato Banzais. If you can make it to the BBQ, you can try my bike. As long as you have reverse shift on your bike of course! I have nothing bad to say about the Yoshis. They sound real mean and are priced very well. If I had to do it all over again...
That's a Ti in-1 System I made ,made the Engine too...only a demonstration that a in 1 system (which can be cpl. at 7lbs) not necessary leads into torque-loss and only high-end peak . To clean a tale.
Full exhaust worth it over already having cans?
I have nothing bad to say about the Yoshis. They sound real mean and are priced very well. If I had to do it all over again...
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