Sato Frame Sliders

I installed my frame sliders and followed the directions to the T. However, it looks as if the left side frame slider does not stick out as far as the right frame slider. I don't think I missed anything. Is this normal?

if the spacer came or fell out when you removed the stock "rod"... then it will be short on the left side

I will have to check. Thanks for the info. I do not remember seeing any extra parts other than the stock bolt. However, I had a friend of mine there when we were installing it and other parts.

how far past the plastic do your sliders extend?

On the right side the two lines in the slider are sticking out about 1/2". On the left side the second line is flush with the fairing. I have looked for a spacer from the parts I have left over from my installs of various parts and do not see anything that came from that part of the bike. So, I am wondering what I may have done wrong or whether there is a difference between the left and right sides. If you look down over the fairing from the gas tank on the right side you can see a decent amount of the slider; on the left it looks almost even with the upper portion of the fairing.

yeah, that's wrong. definitley missing something. Either the silver spacer that's about 2" wide and about 1" in diameter, or the black spacer that is supposed to touch it that is more like 4" long but pretty skinny.

When you did your frame slider install, did you have to support the engine in
any way? I loosened up all my bolts and nuts and was gonna do my install
the other day, but, after looking at the whole picture, it looked as if when I
removed the stock "special shaft" that everything would tip forward and I'd
never get alignment again... that stock shaft wasn't coming out easy either..

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by roddy45 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">When you did your frame slider install, did you have to support the engine in
any way? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Nope. It will stay in place.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by roddy45 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">that stock shaft wasn't coming out easy either..</TD></TR></TABLE>

if you have a wooden dowel and a rubber mallet, that's the safest way I can think of to knock it out. If not, a mallet and a screw driver, but be careful. And, keep in mind it only comes out one way: right to left as you sit on the bike.

hey Roddy.....the install is quite simple really...but if you don't loosen the left side bolt clamp (via a little hex bolt) it may fight you.

It is kinda a two person job to loosen and tighten the bolt. One person with breaker bar and one with ratchet. crack bolt.....remove nut and washer from rt. side. loosen the engine bolt clamp via the litte nut. pull out engine through bolt. DON'T LOSE THE SPACER THAT WILL LIKELY FALL TO THE GROUND OR DROP OUT OF ALIGNMENT. Then install the new stuff in the reverse order....don't forget to retighten the through bolt clamp thingy with the little bolt.

you don't need to loosen any bolts other than the one your removing and the little through bolt clamp bolt on the left side.

we're all hoping you removed the right bolt

hey Eric.. Well, I was able to break the nut on the left side of the bike, then
used a wrench and some light taps from a hammer to loosen the clamp bolt on
the right side. I just looked under there and was like "WHOA!! this shaft
looks like it supports the friggin engine!!" I had visions of the whole damn block
falling forward after I slid that shaft out... I might wait on that install till I get
my PCIII in, having those frame sliders there might make getting to the water
proof boot behind the radiator a bit more difficult than it needs to be...

This is the first time I've had the bike apart before, so I'm proceeding with
caution and trying to think a few steps ahead before I start turning wrenches.

Another question, when I did my pair mod, I used the block off plates from Dan
Kyle. I had to pop the check valve out and remove a tiny philips head screw
cuz the block off plate wouldn't fit over and seal right.. is this ok?

are you saying you left the orignal check plate frame with the black gasket thing in there and put the DK plate over it?

it should be fine....did you use high temp black or copper permatex sealant? I orignally left the oem gasket frame in after removing the check and just put the DK plates ontop without sealant. I eventually went back in when doing a spark plug change and just used the DK plates and high temp sealant to rule out any vacuum leaks from this area.

pretty much what I did, I popped the frame out, removed the small screw and
the check valves, put the frame back in and installed the kyle block off plates..

I'll see how it works, any problems and I'll go the high temp sealant route...

if your still getting lots of popping on decel....just move on.....get your PC and pipes and recheck then.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by throttlehead &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hey Roddy.....the install is quite simple really...but if you don't loosen the left side bolt clamp (via a little hex bolt) it may fight you.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Roddy, agree with the above. Trying to push out without loosening clamp is unnecessary.

I installed my sliders (Intuitives here) about 4 weeks ago, so this is by memory - you have to loosen the left side clamp bolt. (If you are going by the MOD on the Rogue site, I believe that RC was 00 or 01 which did not appear to have such a clamp; 02+ are slightly different requiring that bolt to be loosened.)To access it, I believe I had to remove a bolt on the oil cooler so it would swing out of the way; not disconnect tubes, just swing away with tubing still connected. No big deal, just an extra step.

RCnJax

I had the same problem/result with the Sato frame sliders. I even removed/reinstalled them, following the instructions with my wife looking over my shoulder to see if I was missing anything; same result. I know I installed them correctly. I had posted or responded to a similar thread a few months ago expressing my dissatisfaction with my 3 Sato products purchased so far; seemed like I was the only unhappy customer at the time, other than a few with exhaust complaints. How hard would it be to get the sliders the right length when designing them?

I was hammering away on that front mount today for my new Sato frame slider, it wouldn't budge, I even had to file the semi mushroomed head to get the nut back onto the stock front mount bolt...

I broke loose allen head side, but being I only had a standard allen wrench, I only turned it a few times:/

I was also wondering how you guys refference where to put the hole in the fairing, I'm sure I can figure it out, but I'm always open for advice :

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cutter &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I was also wondering how you guys refference where to put the hole in the fairing, I'm sure I can figure it out, but I'm always open for advice :

</TD></TR></TABLE>

measure with micrometer...... mark with chalk... cut with ax

I was going to weld a hole cutter to my sledgehammer and stamp out the holes, but I guess a axe will work too

as far as one side sticking out father then the other, did you make sure to put the left side on the left and right on the right. Because their is a difference in the length of the l/r side sliders, and if you get them in the wrong side 1 will be way short and the othe to long.

and where to cut the hole in the fairing go to rogue site there is a pretty neat trick with play-dou, i used silly putty worked out very well. everyone was impressed w/ the hole being prefectly centered on the sliders including myself.