Is the aftermarket link always a better choice for the overall handling when using the RC for racing and track riding?
I like to hear from those who have used it for racing.
Thanks in advance.
We recently had a discussion on this matter on the Italian forum. General consensus is it works but...
1)You must have either a very good suspension technician or be very good at adjusting suspensions yourself since it will require a completely new set-up.
2)It doesn't work with the stock shock and some even complained about Ohlins.
3)You'll really feel the difference only if you run slicks.
We recently had a discussion on this matter on the Italian forum. General consensus is it works but...
1)You must have either a very good suspension technician or be very good at adjusting suspensions yourself since it will require a completely new set-up.
2)It doesn't work with the stock shock and some even complained about Ohlins.
3)You'll really feel the difference only if you run slicks.
Umm...it took my bike from a forced turn-in with a countersteer effort to a eyes only machine.
I do run the ohlins and the forks are well sorted 10 mm above the triple.
when I went to the taller 180-55 power one it had zero feedback and was as nervous as a cat in a rocking chair factory, lowered the rear ride height four turns to two threads showing and it rails once again.
I gotta agree with Wingnutt here. I had a 2000 with no link but an ohlins rear. While the ohlins rear helped a ton, it wasnt until I rode my 2003 with the ohlins rear+ rear link that I really felt a vast improvement. The link makes a night and day difference!
Umm...it took my bike from a forced turn-in with a countersteer effort to a eyes only machine.
I do run the ohlins and the forks are well sorted 10 mm above the triple.
when I went to the taller 180-55 power one it had zero feedback and was as nervous as a cat in a rocking chair factory, lowered the rear ride height four turns to two threads showing and it rails once again.
(note the paperweight on my desk)
Just picked up a Sato link from here off the forum, CAN'T WAIT FOR NEXT SPRING TO FEEL THE DIFFERENCE!
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SP2 number 2...
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Dude, nobody cares. That's why they are all jizzing on your head and telling you its raining.
I gotta agree with Wingnutt here. I had a 2000 with no link but an ohlins rear. While the ohlins rear helped a ton, it wasnt until I rode my 2003 with the ohlins rear+ rear link that I really felt a vast improvement. The link makes a night and day difference!
That wouldn't have anything to with a different swingarm, lighter wheels, front forks, tires or anything else like that would it?
It all depends on the suspension tuner. I use LE and he recomends not using one. There are so many variables added to that equation where do you start. If you want quicker turn raise the rear or drop the front. If you want more stability lower the rear and raise the front. For that matter changing the rebound, compression and even tir brand or size can change how the bike turns in or handles.
Umm...it took my bike from a forced turn-in with a countersteer effort to a eyes only machine.
I do run the ohlins and the forks are well sorted 10 mm above the triple.
when I went to the taller 180-55 power one it had zero feedback and was as nervous as a cat in a rocking chair factory, lowered the rear ride height four turns to two threads showing and it rails once again.
(note the paperweight on my desk)
Like you (my experience) when I went to a 180-55 with 4 threats showing on the Ohlins (aftermarket link) and one line showing on the forks it made the ride very unstable. I was pushing/loosing the front during full lean angle. When I had the 190-50 with 4 threats showing on the shock and stock link the rc was very stable while turning but a bit hard to steer.
I am contenplating going back to the stock link and simply extending the shock to improve steering but before I do that I want to see if I can achieve a good setup as it stands. My other concern is that I am now running Dunlop slics and this has added about 27mm or so of rear ride heigh and I am now trying to compensate for that by raising the front and shortening the shock as much as possible.
Like you (my experience) when I went to a 180-55 with 4 threats showing on the Ohlins (aftermarket link) and one line showing on the forks it made the ride very unstable. I was pushing/loosing the front during full lean angle. When I had the 190-50 with 4 threats showing on the shock and stock link the rc was very stable while turning but a bit hard to steer.
I am contenplating going back to the stock link and simply extending the shock to improve steering but before I do that I want to see if I can achieve a good setup as it stands. My other concern is that I am now running Dunlop slics and this has added about 27mm or so of rear ride heigh and I am now trying to compensate for that by raising the front and shortening the shock as much as possible.
I thought that the shock length recommendation with the Öhlins shock/aftermarket link combo was same as stock = 326 mm = two threads showing in the ride height adjuster. With stock link it should be 331 mm = seven threads. So you might want to try to lower the ride height for 2 mm/2 threads? See this for example and please correct me if I'm missing something here.
Obviously, tire choice affects the handling a lot. There is a big difference btw 180/55 Supercorsa and a 195/65 Dunlop N-Tec, for instance.
Went back to the stock link ( from a kyle link .SP2) after almost bottoming out on hi-g corners ( data from sag rod device at the axle)
Probably should have tried with a stiffer spring rate but the stock link performed very well and was a quick fix...
And yes... the N-tec 195-65 slick do raise the rear a lot ...( 15 mm up from a 180-55 pirelli dot race)
Kyle link might perform well on low-g tracks with slow hairpins , where you want a nice squating motion to the rear for good traction ,,,that link raise the rear but is also a lot less progressive ( read softer )
the new angle is supposed to help squat mostly and that is about it. the link itself is not a tool for better turn in or for stability the forks and shock do that well enough IMO but the link does help because of the new angle
if you want fatsre turn in use a higher profile tire, shim the rear and b careful on droppin g the forks more then a line or two or the front will be nervous
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Aftermarket suspension link
"03 RC"
or so of rear ride heigh and I am now trying to compensate for that by raising the front and shortening the shock as much as possible.
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