After you flush, I just dump the hole bottle in, i dont carre what the directions say, Ive done this for years. Then to the top with distilled water, burp, repeat
Hate to burst your bubble, but the wetter stuff isn't going to lower your temps, certainly didn't for mine. I lived in AZ where lower temps would have significantly improved my riding, in fact for some strange reason it ran hotter, freak coincidence I'll never know, but I went back to the Honda coolant (needed to for sub-freezing temps here) and it ran just like it used to. The only bike-related change that has lowered my temps, is the new Power commander w/ the Dan Kyle Sato Banzai map, a little richer so worse gas milage but almost 5-8 degrees cooler.
The original idea to convert to the water wetter product was because I was thinking of doing some track days, that was the only benefit.
Hate to burst your bubble, but the wetter stuff isn't going to lower your temps, certainly didn't for mine. I lived in AZ where lower temps would have significantly improved my riding, in fact for some strange reason it ran hotter, freak coincidence I'll never know, but I went back to the Honda coolant (needed to for sub-freezing temps here) and it ran just like it used to. The only bike-related change that has lowered my temps, is the new Power commander w/ the Dan Kyle Sato Banzai map, a little richer so worse gas milage but almost 5-8 degrees cooler.
The original idea to convert to the water wetter product was because I was thinking of doing some track days, that was the only benefit.
never tried a whole bottle at once, but I pour about 20 +/- or so capfuls in a gallon jug of distilled water (4 caps per gallon, plus a little extra). Shake jug, then pour it in the radiator....but thats just me
I followed the directions and have no issues for trackdays. Was running just over 200 on a very hot day at Road Atlanta (about 100 ambient!) and was a couple or more degrees cooler than my buddy on his Gixxer 600, and an SP2 that was running Engine Ice plus WW.
I use Honda brand in my street bikes, and have for years with zero temp issues. VFR with side rads and no fan mods.
I premixed with distilled water in a gallon milk jug and top up the rad. Just make sure you flush the system at least twice with water because coolant finds all kind of places to stick around. Mind you I have to get all coolant out because it is for my race bike. A little bit left over on a road bike should be okay.
As for better cooling I don't think it is any better than distilled water with a bit of oil to lubricate the water pump. Try Engine Ice if you want something that may do lower temp; at least it claims to do that.
Hope everyone using coolant replacement remember to changeover before the winter freeze.
Hate to burst your bubble, but the wetter stuff isn't going to lower your temps....
Your temp gauge isn't telling the whole story. It's only telling you the temp of your coolant, right? Water is better than propylene or ethylene glycol in transferring heat for two reasons: first it has a higher specific heat, which means it can hold more heat. There is more heat (energy) in one gallon of water at a given temperature than in any antifreeze that you can buy for your bike, or at least any that I'm aware of. second, water has a much better thermal conductivity, or ability to pick up and dissipate heat to another medium. So, water will pick up heat from your engine faster (which may cause it to be 'hotter') it will move a greater amount of heat to your radiators at a give flow rate, and it will dissipate more heat to your radiator fins so they can do their job. The system may appear to be running hotter, but the engine should really be running cooler. FWIW I'm not talking out of my ass and am willing to engage anyone on a technical discussion regarding heat transfer, thermodynamics or fluid mechanics. It's my background and like it or not, I get to deal with it often enough.
Your temp gauge isn't telling the whole story. It's only telling you the temp of your coolant, right? Water is better than propylene or ethylene glycol in transferring heat for two reasons: first it has a higher specific heat, which means it can hold more heat. There is more heat (energy) in one gallon of water at a given temperature than in any antifreeze that you can buy for your bike, or at least any that I'm aware of. second, water has a much better thermal conductivity, or ability to pick up and dissipate heat to another medium. So, water will pick up heat from your engine faster (which may cause it to be 'hotter') it will move a greater amount of heat to your radiators at a give flow rate, and it will dissipate more heat to your radiator fins so they can do their job. The system may appear to be running hotter, but the engine should really be running cooler. FWIW I'm not talking out of my ass and am willing to engage anyone on a technical discussion regarding heat transfer, thermodynamics or fluid mechanics. It's my background and like it or not, I get to deal with it often enough.
Using a whole bottle is a waste of money AND it accelerates the formation of a white "film" that comes from the silicates falling out of the Water Wetter. This film is normal and is part of the corrosion protection that comes from Water Wetter, which is a good thing, but formation of thick layer of this film is NOT. Use it according to the instructions, that's what they're there for. You should get 3 radiator flushes or so from the standard bottle of Water Wetter I believe.
Your temp gauge isn't telling the whole story. It's only telling you the temp of your coolant
You obviously know what you're talking about, but I know what my bike's temp gauge has been reading for 5 yrs, maybe it isn't telling the whole story, but it's telling me a "number" everytime I ride regardless, sooo my point was a reference between the product Water Wetter and the Honda coolant, and I'll say it again, the Wetter product increased my temps.
Using a whole bottle is a waste of money AND it accelerates the formation of a white "film" that comes from the silicates falling out of the Water Wetter. This film is normal and is part of the corrosion protection that comes from Water Wetter, which is a good thing, but formation of thick layer of this film is NOT. Use it according to the instructions, that's what they're there for. You should get 3 radiator flushes or so from the standard bottle of Water Wetter I believe.
That's good. The stuff doesn't stay in any of our bikes for long, no more than season. I've pulled the motors apart after a couple of years of use and never had a spec of trouble. So if a bottle lasts you 10 years good on ya! I'm sticking to what's worked for me.
That's good. The stuff doesn't stay in any of our bikes for long, no more than season. I've pulled the motors apart after a couple of years of use and never had a spec of trouble. So if a bottle lasts you 10 years good on ya! I'm sticking to what's worked for me.
OK, so ignore the instructions, ignore the possible residue, and ignore the fact that you also lower the thermal conductivity of your mixture by using way more than is required. This essentially negates the positives of using Water Wetter in the first place. But if it works for you, good for you.
That's good. The stuff doesn't stay in any of our bikes for long, no more than season. I've pulled the motors apart after a couple of years of use and never had a spec of trouble. So if a bottle lasts you 10 years good on ya! I'm sticking to what's worked for me.
Not to be an ass, but at the dealer i used to work at, a fellow tech showed me the damage of just running water wetter with out flushes in 3 track only bikes (I see at least you flush the system so no prob here) and the white crystalization around the whole water pump was amazing. In fact those bikes were there for that reason alone, a compleate replacement of the whole water pump system. So RC51 crazed is right i would in my opinion run only what the directions say and from time to time flush the system and keep regular coolant in there for a while for proper lubrication, my
Not to be an ass, but at the dealer i used to work at, a fellow tech showed me the damage of just running water wetter with out flushes in 3 track only bikes (I see at least you flush the system so no prob here) and the white crystalization around the whole water pump was amazing. In fact those bikes were there for that reason alone, a compleate replacement of the whole water pump system. So RC51 crazed is right i would in my opinion run only what the directions say and from time to time flush the system and keep regular coolant in there for a while for proper lubrication, my
thats cool, but i had the motor turn open and its clean. i dont doubt what you say, but the fluids cycled out often, and i always flush with 2-3gallons of distilled. thanks for the heads up.
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