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RC51-less Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: PA
Posts: 7,318
It's a lot easier to test the bike and know for sure then have us guess 35 different things.....
There's a "test plug that you need to ground, and count the flashes of the FI light. The plug is under the seat, right side of the bike, near the ECM , at the right rear of the battery. There are 2 wires to the plug, and you need to jump them, then turn the key "on", with the kill switch on "run".
If there's a code, the FI will flash your code(s). Count the flashes.
There's long blinks amd short blinks.
Long = 1.3 seconds
Short = .5 seconds
If you have a long blink, the 3 short ones.....that's 13.
A long blink = 10
A short blink = 1
9 short blinks = 9....and so on.
Let us know....
CODES:
0 - bank angle sensor, ECM, PGM-FI fuse
1 - MAP sensor
2 - MAP sensor vacuum hoses, or sensor itself
7 - ECT sensor poorly connected or open circuit
8 - TP sensor, TP senspr wiring
9 - IAT sensor connection, or open wire
10 - Baro sensor, or connection, or wiring
11 - Vehicle speed sensor, or connection or wiring
12 - #1 injector connection, or faulty injector
13 - #2 injectior connection or faulty injector
14 - #1 connection or open/shorted circuit
15 - #2 connection or open/shorted circuit
18 - Cam pulse sensor, connection or loose sensor
19 - Ignition pulse sensor, connection or loose sensor
20 - faulty E-PROM in ECM.
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did you try pulling out the choke a little . my bike is really cold blooded. if i don't use the choke it stalls a lot until it warmers up. oh yea i live in florida.
__________________ 01 RC51
lifes to short not to have fun TOPDOGGER
I told him about the site and this thread so he can check the codes on the bike... thanks for you guys who have chimed in so far... I'm sure he can post up more information.
let me explain it takes my bike a few miles to warm up enough for me to turn the choke off , if that isn't it try pulling the choke all the way out an see if it will run like that if it will it probably some thing in the fuel injection if you don't have a pc or fuel mixture control u can't adjust it . that deal with the choke is a race trick to stop the bike from chugging or bucking in a corner . did it run like that before you put the pipes on? are you filters clean?
i hate to ask this do you have gas? your gas warning light may have burned out.
__________________ 01 RC51
lifes to short not to have fun TOPDOGGER
let me explain it takes my bike a few miles to warm up enough for me to turn the choke off , if that isn't it try pulling the choke all the way out an see if it will run like that if it will it probably some thing in the fuel injection if you don't have a pc or fuel mixture control u can't adjust it . that deal with the choke is a race trick to stop the bike from chugging or bucking in a corner . did it run like that before you put the pipes on? are you filters clean?
i hate to ask this do you have gas? your gas warning light may have burned out.
Yeah, he said the bike DOES have gas. I asked the same thing.
I've pulled the choke out to warm the bike up sometimes, but I've never left it pulled out while riding the bike. The bike has jardine pipes on it now, and it has for about a year and a half... before that it had two brothers (were replaced when i lowsided the bike in 07). I didn't have any problem with it from changing pipes. I don't think it would change much anyway since it's just a slip-on system.
As far as the air filter, it has been on there a while (summer of 06) so it might need to be changed. Honestly, I don't think it would be so corroted with crap to make it shut off when given gas. Will an old air filter cause the FI light to come on?
As I said before, he told me the bike will turn on and idle but when you give it gas it dies...
Again, he will post up tonight sometime probably with more information...
it shouldn't matter thoughs two systems are more or less the same. it still sounds like its cold. i run my bike for around 3 to 5 miles before its warm enough to turn it off completely. i went from running a 2-1 shorty to a set of sato high mounts an all it did was run better. oh wait try this lift the tank up an take the hole air box out , look at the throttle body an make sure all the vacume lines are on.
__________________ 01 RC51
lifes to short not to have fun TOPDOGGER
It is not good to run your bike 3-5 miles with the choke on, dont know what racing trick is that but ive never herd any of that as ive worked in the industry for a while (AMA). The choke should be used for cold start up and thats it, once it idles without the choke it needs to be turned off.
Like mentioned above that FI light code or codes need to be identified then deal with the problem from there, thats it.
It is not good to run your bike 3-5 miles with the choke on, dont know what racing trick is that but ive never herd any of that as ive worked in the industry for a while (AMA). The choke should be used for cold start up and thats it, once it idles without the choke it needs to be turned off.
Like mentioned above that FI light code or codes need to be identified then deal with the problem from there, thats it.
that trick came from chad wolfe he's a wera inspector here in fl he was also a race team engineer . didn't believe it either but tried it at homestead an it works.
__________________ 01 RC51
lifes to short not to have fun TOPDOGGER
that trick came from chad wolfe he's a wera inspector here in fl he was also a race team engineer . didn't believe it either but tried it at homestead an it works.
Well i dont want to hijack Brandons thread but essentially with the choke on your enrichening the low speed idle system in your FI/throttle bodies thats it, its used only for the cold start up of your bike, IMO i would not run it for a couple miles to warm her up like that. I actually use it as little as possible, we actually use to remove the whole choke cable etc. Not too sure if we actually remove the whole starter valve assembly as well.
I just warm my bike up to operating temps and the ride her at 172 degrees.
This is what happens when your running a rich map, mind you my RC only had 11,000 miles on her with Sato lows with the kyle map
I eventually cleaned the pistons up and after 3 hours of cleaning per pistons i got them to look like this
Top........The last thing this guy needs is someone so new to their own bike trying to give 3rd hand advice based on something you think you heard someone mention a while back while they were wrenching on your RC. You're only going to send this cat, and others, on a wild goose chase.
There is no way Chad said for you to run the bike around on the choke. You must have heard wrong or completely misunderstood. BTW, the RC choke is self adjusting so as the bike warms up the choke closes. I'm pretty sure what your RC god said was to bump up the fast idle adjustment so the bike idles a few hundred rpm higher than normal. Some do this with the fast idle adjustment screw and others actually shim their TB valves to remain slightly open from the full rest position.
Brandon.....someone linked up an online manual. It would help others to help you if you can pull some codes to start from. From the very limited info you have given us i'd take a quick look at your spark plugs. The front is easy to get to and would help easily confirm, or rule out, several possabilities.
Yeah, he said the bike DOES have gas. I asked the same thing.
I've pulled the choke out to warm the bike up sometimes, but I've never left it pulled out while riding the bike. The bike has jardine pipes on it now, and it has for about a year and a half... before that it had two brothers (were replaced when i lowsided the bike in 07). I didn't have any problem with it from changing pipes. I don't think it would change much anyway since it's just a slip-on system.
As far as the air filter, it has been on there a while (summer of 06) so it might need to be changed. Honestly, I don't think it would be so corroted with crap to make it shut off when given gas. Will an old air filter cause the FI light to come on?
As I said before, he told me the bike will turn on and idle but when you give it gas it dies...
Again, he will post up tonight sometime probably with more information...
Air filters will not throw codes, nor do they have anything to do with the issues. That is unless there was a squirrel or rat that built a nest up in there and is choking off enough air flow.....highly doubtful
I had a problem almost identical to this. About a week after I bought the bike it started acting up, dying, not starting, almost cutting off when hitting big bumps, etc.
I tried everything from changing spark plugs, checking for codes, filter, elec. connectors, bank switch, yada yada. One night I wiggled the harness going into the ECU (which I had done several times before) and I could make the bike cut off. There was a splice in one of the wires that had a short in it. Had it welded and haven't had a problem since.
What could be wrong?? FI LIGHT / WONT START
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01 RC51
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