So I installed my Turnone Airbox. 10 hours + on the install... well I had to do the pair mod, and the charcoal canister removal mod, durning said install... . Either way, I have no FI lights. The Bike turns on, idles correctly (1250 ~ 1350 on the puter with USB app open,) with the tank propped. When I close it, the idle drops to 900 ~ 1000 on the bikes display. It will idle in a garage, but when I am riding, if I shift down, and hold the clutch as I approach the stop light at an intersection, the bike dies. I really think it has to do with the idle adjustment. Does anyone have similiar interesting properties when installing and tuning there's? Thanks in advance again.
Post in other thread:
Quote:
On the Idle set screw, looking at the laptop, it says I am holding Idle around 1250 + 50 or so. I closed it all up, and took it for a test ride. Awsome power response. Not sure though, but after idles at a light, it drops down to 1000 or so on the dash. THen it dies...? Any ideas. To lean in the bottom end? The frame was getting hot. It's 84 outside.
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Changed the map, got it to idle at lights until the temp on the bike reached 190. Then it started to vapor lock is what it seems like its doing, and it shuts off.
I only richend the bottom end with all 10's in the 0 column. Through all RPM's. Thanks to one of the maps from other threads for that. This seems to help it idle better, but still low at 1100. Starts, and it idles at 1400, but after 30 seconds, back down.
Try turning your fast idle screw to the right until you get 1,400-1,500rpm at temp(+180).
I was starting to question my logic, about when I did the idle. It wasn't that hot, when I did it. I will try that. I knew it had to be something simple...
OK, well, interesting enough, that is harder then it looks. I just got back in from doing this out in the parking garage on lunch. Found me a dark corner. Tried to keep the gas tank as low to the bike as I could while gently twisting the idle, to tune it at different degrees.
Not sure how that works...set the idle at 130, let the bike get warmer, and turn it some more..seems as though I am just highering the idle overall. How does the bike independantly track different idle temps?
So heres my further dilema: The idle can turn a full turn(righty), and not change, com backwards half a turn(lefty) and it jumps to 1500. So now I am confused... . Righty tighty, the higher the idle...lefty lucy, lower the idle...and yes, I am standing on the right side of the bike...LOL.
Not sure what is going on. Checked vacuum hoses, nothing. The only thing I can think is that my pair mod-mod didn't work as well, leaving a vacuum leak on the pair's...? Now I have a high idle at 1500 stable for 130, 150, 180 215, and of course 235...then the bike dies.
Prior to airbox, there were a few times, where if the bike got super hot, it would die, and I would have to twist the throttle, while pushing the start button to get it to turn back on. Very rarely, but still happened once a month on a decent ride...Now with the airbox, seems worse.
What could I be missing....
Edit: Are there two idles screws...where is the fast idle screw. I am changing the one on the right hand side of the throttle body assembly, mid rack. The cable that comes through the box back lower right, and does a left hand 90 into the rail. Thats the one i am changeing. Is there another I am missing?
Edit: I also rechecked my pair valve mod, and they don't look to be leaking. They are still clean around the edges, wich would imply that they are not leaking anyways...
Edit: I may have found it. The little vacuum hose, under the front right corner of the front throttlebodie, it comes through the wall with my throttle cable's. This little guy conncets to the vacuum tank one way valve...trying to follow in the service manual 1/28...the little hose right under the throttle cable connections where they connect to the throttle body assembly. Thorsten mentions to remove this in step 11: http://www.honda-rc51.de/ab8.JPG but I don't see where he reconnects it...? I have it routed into the airbox through the same hole as the throttle cables...if I pinched this, would that cause a vacuum leak?
So I installed my Turnone Airbox. 10 hours + on the install... well I had to do the pair mod, and the charcoal canister removal mod, durning said install... . Either way, I have no FI lights. The Bike turns on, idles correctly (1250 ~ 1350 on the puter with USB app open,) with the tank propped. When I close it, the idle drops to 900 ~ 1000 on the bikes display. It will idle in a garage, but when I am riding, if I shift down, and hold the clutch as I approach the stop light at an intersection, the bike dies. I really think it has to do with the idle adjustment. Does anyone have similiar interesting properties when installing and tuning there's? Thanks in advance again.
Post in other thread:
You should have came down to my shop I could build a whole bike in 10 hours
....I know, I know, horable time frame, but hey, it was my first attempt. Not to bad concidering, but I am sure you guys think other wise. LOL I might just bring it to you if I can't get this thing fingered out...You still open for business and all with everything? Do you have a Dyno too???
I'm still open for buisness as long as the fire doesn't hit us and no dyno yet but hopefully next year as it's going to cost me around $30,000 for everything.
Well, I know this isn't a Thorsten box, god knows I wanted one...but I also thought the Turnone had excellent reviews, so really it was which one I could get my hands on first. Hoping one of the two might see my little thread here, and post up some love...
I started reading your #7 post and had to stop,... I've got too much of a head ache going on right now,... BUT anyway...
WHY! Are you lifting the AirBox Cover/Fuel Cell to adjust the idle!??
The TurnOne AirBox is fine man, I think it might even be better then Thorstens, as
Brett has done alittle more refinement as time has gone by, Thorsten has a GaZillionBillionnnn other on the fire ....
The "TurnOne AB" is NOT the Problem...
Why a problem with the idle anyhow,... Did you not count the turns/to remove the idle cable?
Then install the same amount of turns, that's what you did right?
I counted the turns it took to remove it,..
Upon install, I just turned it back in to the same count of turns= Same EXACT spot.
I don't think I even have had to mess with my idle....
If idle is your only problem (as I said, I've got a headache and I could read your complete reply#7)
then just set it up as John "V" said, but just don't dick around with the fuel cell/airbox cover.. leave it closed while you
set up your idle, once you get up to normal operating temps. It's easy man..
Reply to Fiddy1, from the other airbox thread RG had going
No, I have not had my front Throttle body or Rear, come lose from the intake manifold or head. Is your AirBox sitting flat on the head?
If so, It shouldn't happen, that is as long as you've got the rest right with the Intake manifold(s) and clamps....
Were you able to get your clamps on good or? Do NOT tighten too much, they just get snugged up,
Start another thread here to see if any other guys have had this problem too..
Peace Jeff
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I counted the turns it took to remove it,..
Upon install, I just turned it back in to the same count of turns= Same EXACT spot.
I don't think I even have had to mess with my idle....
Well....um....errr...At first I didn't take it off, and then at the last moment, I realized I had too, and um....
I don't think it is the box either. I can't seem to get enough leverage to turn the Idle screw from down low. Just how it sits, the gromet it goes through, is tight, so i have been doing it with my hands, inside the airbox itself. How many different temps do I need to set the idle for?
How many different temps do I need to set the idle for?
Just one boss. You set your idle once the operating temp gets above 170 or 180. Basically you can turn the idle screw on the right side of the bike until the choke knob starts getting pushed out. Once it starts doing that you can back down the idle until you settle around 1,300-1,500. Or you can unscrew the idle screw until it comes loose. Put it back in and wait for the bike to get up to temp. Once at temp you can push in the choke knob and start cranking the idle screw clockwise until the bike levels out at around 1,300-1,500 rpm.
Thank you. I misunderstood the idle adjust process as though you had to set multiple times. Oops. I can't find my owners manual. When I was setting the idle I just was reading the temps out, and as it got warmer, the bike would change, so i changed the idle some more. I did notice the choke coming out, and it was out approx..1 cm or so, I pushed it in and stopped. Didn't realize you could tell if you were over the sweet spot by the choke. Thank you. I will try that.
Bump to the top again. I must strive for perfection for it took me 1.5 hours to get that thing close to throttle stability, the way V suggested. I have it stable at 1325 ~ 1375. Alright, so here is the new issue or rather question...
Does the Air temp at which you check and set your idle matter?
Does it matter if the airbox (gastank as lid) is fully sealed...pressure...?
Reason: I got it set like I said above. Temp was in the garage, and about 75 - 85 in there when setting. Rode the 10 or so miles to the coast, and the bike idled rougher. THe only thing I can think, is this is due to the change in airpressure/temp of about 15 degrees cooler from where I live inland to the coast. + 100 feet in elevation if that depending on the direction.
The bike will idle at running temp of 180 just like I said. At the cooler, lower alt, it ran rougher, and dipped to the 1000 + 100. BIke temp hovered around 165 to 185 depending on location as well.
Also, I left one of the little rubber gromets out of the mounting assembly back by the battery. The tank wobbled on the bolt, and would shift to one side...opening and closing, causing a wind tunnel in the air intake...might have led to some strange vacum properties. Fixed that as well, and it seemed to help stabalize the idle like I said, until I rode it...
I hope I have given you all you need, if not, Scott, I'll be headed your way soon! Just trying to learn, and do it for me, so that I can earn the respect on the track and etc.
As long as you get the engine temp to 180 you are good to set idle. I don't know if the air box "has" to be sealed to set idle, but i wouldn't think so. Then again i may be mistaken on that one. However, if you are moving i'm pretty sure its rather important to keep a good seal on the airbox. Might not make a catastrophy happen, but may let the bike stumble every now and again.
As far as the rough idle at sea level. Not to sure what might be causing the bike to slightly act up. Might the air you got into be heavily laddened(sp?) with smoke from the fires out there? I can see the bike getting a little rough if it was sucking up soot. And a couple hundred feet of elevation is not going to make a difference.
Try getting the idle as close to 1,400 or just slightly higher as you possibly can and see what happens.
The bike sounds a bit pingie also. This is due to it not being mapped corectly I am thinking. Rich or lean...? I will try to get the idle up as well, a little.
Why sit there trying to GUESS if it's rich or lean...?
Pull at least one of your spark plugs and see what that cylinder is telling you! Pull both/read both and the ENGINE IS Telling you
what you need to know!!
This goes for EVERYONE: One of the BEST mods. you can do for yourself, and to ALL engines is,... Learn to Read Spark Plugs! They can tell you Everything you need to know!!... IF you know where to look at them and how to "READ" them..
How old/miles are on your spark plugs?
I would put NEW spark plugs in it, since you're trying to a good running engine with a new Induction AirBox set-up...
No, the AirBox cover/Fuel Cell does not have to be on to set your "idle"... BUT
You want a good sealing AirBox to reap the bennies to the max. of a "Ram Air Induction System" Also another BIG reason why you
want a GOOD Seal is... The AirFilter set-up! Right? You don't want to be sucking Crap into your engine...
R/G you said :"Also, I left one of the little rubber gromets out of the mounting assembly back by the battery. The tank wobbled on the bolt, and would shift to one side...opening and closing, causing a wind tunnel in the air intake...might have led to some strange vacum properties. Fixed that as well, and it seemed to help stabalize the idle like I said, until I rode it"...
The part that I copy and pasted here and made it BOLD... I don't understand....?
What little rubber gromets out of the mounting assembly back by the battery...
I can't think of or remember what or why that would have anything to do with the Fuel Cell/AirBox Cover!?? Sorry. You WANT
A GOOD SEAL Very Important... IMO.. as said above.
Peace Jeff
__________________
IF You are Not a Member of and You do NOT Support the NRA, then as (uncle Ted) says: "You are NO friend of mine!" Please Also support Your Local State Shooting Org. as well! I support the VSSA and the VCDL too.
USA: OUR 2nd Amendment Right "We HAVE the Right to Keep andBear Arms"
The rear bolt that holds the tank to the bike. It has rubber gromets on both sides. I left one out. Its in now. I don't know why I didn't just say that. Deff. will pull the spark plugs.
pssst....Thats why your the instructor. Thanks again.
T1/Thorsten/Mori Airbox Idle Q's
. Either way, I have no FI lights. The Bike turns on, idles correctly (1250 ~ 1350 on the puter with USB app open,) with the tank propped. When I close it, the idle drops to 900 ~ 1000 on the bikes display. It will idle in a garage, but when I am riding, if I shift down, and hold the clutch as I approach the stop light at an intersection, the bike dies. 
I really think it has to do with the idle adjustment. Does anyone have similiar interesting properties when installing and tuning there's? Thanks in advance again.
...or a narly idea!!! 
. Righty tighty, the higher the idle...lefty lucy, lower the idle...and yes, I am standing on the right side of the bike...LOL.
for it took me 1.5 hours to get that thing close to throttle stability, the way V suggested. I have it stable at 1325 ~ 1375. Alright, so here is the new issue or rather question...
Linear Mode
