Have you ever been to Ohio, Jimmy? Heh. The heads? Just terrible! Terrible! J/K. They're very nice, as usual, and the ports are optimized for the cams- which means they are the same as we do for stock cams. Since the Mori 1 cams are not far removed from stock we went with the regular setup. Now if you were running Mori 2 or HRC spec cams like Damon, they'd definitely be different.
Back in the saddle this AM. Pics show how I block off the PAIR with a 3/8-24 grub screw, and as far as I got with the head install before I realized I had the wrong head gaskets. Dammit!
What also works good for lazy guys like me to block off the PAIR is to get solid dowels (as go between the crankcases in old CBRs) and stick them in there with a little sealant. Works great.
Have you experimented with using the PAIR to evacuate the crankcase?
when I bring my motor back to you this winter for assembly, definitely need you to do that with the PAIR. tired of having oil leaking on the engine through those cheap block off plates I got
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03 RC51 - 135whp via lots of stickers and a few parts. tuned by hord
when I bring my motor back to you this winter for assembly, definitely need you to do that with the PAIR. tired of having oil leaking on the engine through those cheap block off plates I got
All right, I'm back at it. Heads are on and verifying the cam timing. 2 cams within half a degree of where they need to be, 1 cam 6 degrees off, 1 cam 3 degrees off. Off to the press to push the sprockets off and on again to correct. Nailed 1 first try, the other took 2 tries. Now everything is within half a degree of perfect.
Eagle eyes might notice a small assembly boo-boo... win a cookie if you spot it.
Kinda surprised 0 deg. is to the side and not straight up... But that doesn't take an eagle eye...
Looks good Mr. Hord... You never answered my question in my last reply..... It's okay.. I know you're Busy......> Screwing Off on SpeedZilla.. Hahhaa
Peace Jeff
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I always line up my degree wheels with the stock TDC/F mark on the flywheel, which on the RC aligns with the parting line of the cases when the piston is @ TDC. But that's not it, so no cookie for you.
Sorry, forgot to answer the breather Q. Short answer, I don't drill the cases for an additional breather. I do sometimes drill out the breather nipple on the valve cover and use a Ducati corsa reed valve in the (big) airboxes. That seems to work pretty well.
Can I try one more time now that I'm Home... can't see shite on my 10year OLD computer screen at work... No BS either by the way... atleast 10 years old!
JD... I'm going to say... You've got the cam caps switched... rears on the front...?
Thanks for the Breather info. too,.. which tells me You're fine with Just the 1 BIG Breather set-up...
Peace Brother
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IF You are Not a Member of and You do NOT Support the NRA, then as (uncle Ted) says: "You are NO friend of mine!" Please Also support Your Local State Shooting Org. as well! I support the VSSA and the VCDL too.
USA: OUR 2nd Amendment Right "We HAVE the Right to Keep andBear Arms"
Close enough bro, I'll give you the virtual cookie. The front cam caps are each turned 180 degrees out. (arrows pointing toward the exh.) With the cams coming in/out multiple times I lost track of the orientation for a second. Gotta be careful with those, because they are all installed a certain way at the factory before they machine the cam bores. Honda do some pretty consistent machine work, but still, they have to be oriented correctly.
Somewhere between $0 and $10,000, depends on your goals and budget. Shoot me an email with that info and I'll come up with the best course of action for the $$.
It is a case by case (no pun intended) type of thing. I've seen RC's come in with cylinders in really good shape, and some not so good. This one had some heavy score marks and had to be re-done. (to do things the right way instead of shade tree) The good thing about Millenium's work, once it is done, it'll last the lifetime of the engine.