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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 10-27-2009, 04:38 PM
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Have you ever been to Ohio, Jimmy? Heh. The heads? Just terrible! Terrible! J/K. They're very nice, as usual, and the ports are optimized for the cams- which means they are the same as we do for stock cams. Since the Mori 1 cams are not far removed from stock we went with the regular setup. Now if you were running Mori 2 or HRC spec cams like Damon, they'd definitely be different.

Back in the saddle this AM. Pics show how I block off the PAIR with a 3/8-24 grub screw, and as far as I got with the head install before I realized I had the wrong head gaskets. Dammit!




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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 10-27-2009, 04:50 PM
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My cams are not as big as the HRC or Mori 2, but defiantly bigger then OEM or Mori 1's. But that could change in the next few months.
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old 10-27-2009, 07:28 PM
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What also works good for lazy guys like me to block off the PAIR is to get solid dowels (as go between the crankcases in old CBRs) and stick them in there with a little sealant. Works great.

Have you experimented with using the PAIR to evacuate the crankcase?
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  #44 (permalink)  
Old 10-28-2009, 02:55 PM
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How much it gonna cost to rebuilt it???Can i know the price ...
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  #45 (permalink)  
Old 10-28-2009, 04:36 PM
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when I bring my motor back to you this winter for assembly, definitely need you to do that with the PAIR. tired of having oil leaking on the engine through those cheap block off plates I got
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  #46 (permalink)  
Old 10-31-2009, 05:03 PM
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Default Leaking?

Quote:
Originally Posted by selfinfliction View Post
when I bring my motor back to you this winter for assembly, definitely need you to do that with the PAIR. tired of having oil leaking on the engine through those cheap block off plates I got
Even with high-temp silicone or Yamabond?
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  #47 (permalink)  
Old 11-01-2009, 12:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sbk_drew View Post
Even with high-temp silicone or Yamabond?
yeah, it has some high temp orange. same stuff we use to make header gaskets with
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  #48 (permalink)  
Old 11-03-2009, 08:35 PM
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All right, I'm back at it. Heads are on and verifying the cam timing. 2 cams within half a degree of where they need to be, 1 cam 6 degrees off, 1 cam 3 degrees off. Off to the press to push the sprockets off and on again to correct. Nailed 1 first try, the other took 2 tries. Now everything is within half a degree of perfect.



Eagle eyes might notice a small assembly boo-boo... win a cookie if you spot it.
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Old 11-03-2009, 09:01 PM
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Kinda surprised 0 deg. is to the side and not straight up... But that doesn't take an eagle eye...

Looks good Mr. Hord... You never answered my question in my last reply..... It's okay.. I know you're Busy......> Screwing Off on SpeedZilla.. Hahhaa


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  #50 (permalink)  
Old 11-03-2009, 09:20 PM
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I always line up my degree wheels with the stock TDC/F mark on the flywheel, which on the RC aligns with the parting line of the cases when the piston is @ TDC. But that's not it, so no cookie for you.

Sorry, forgot to answer the breather Q. Short answer, I don't drill the cases for an additional breather. I do sometimes drill out the breather nipple on the valve cover and use a Ducati corsa reed valve in the (big) airboxes. That seems to work pretty well.
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Old 11-04-2009, 12:34 AM
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DAMN! I wanted the cookie too! LOL


Can I try one more time now that I'm Home... can't see shite on my 10year OLD computer screen at work... No BS either by the way... atleast 10 years old!

JD... I'm going to say... You've got the cam caps switched... rears on the front...?

Thanks for the Breather info. too,.. which tells me You're fine with Just the 1 BIG Breather set-up...

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  #52 (permalink)  
Old 11-04-2009, 01:08 AM
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Close enough bro, I'll give you the virtual cookie. The front cam caps are each turned 180 degrees out. (arrows pointing toward the exh.) With the cams coming in/out multiple times I lost track of the orientation for a second. Gotta be careful with those, because they are all installed a certain way at the factory before they machine the cam bores. Honda do some pretty consistent machine work, but still, they have to be oriented correctly.
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  #53 (permalink)  
Old 11-04-2009, 02:00 AM
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Hi JD, how much is gona cost me to rebuild ,my Rc51 engine to race & street worty?..curently is stock
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  #54 (permalink)  
Old 11-04-2009, 02:04 AM
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Somewhere between $0 and $10,000, depends on your goals and budget. Shoot me an email with that info and I'll come up with the best course of action for the $$.
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  #55 (permalink)  
Old 11-04-2009, 09:25 PM
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Finished her up today!



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Old 11-05-2009, 12:56 AM
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Sweet :-)
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  #57 (permalink)  
Old 11-05-2009, 09:01 PM
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thanks for the pics!have the parts to build this motor.am i wasting my time and money if i don't get the liners done?
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  #58 (permalink)  
Old 11-06-2009, 01:27 PM
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It is a case by case (no pun intended) type of thing. I've seen RC's come in with cylinders in really good shape, and some not so good. This one had some heavy score marks and had to be re-done. (to do things the right way instead of shade tree) The good thing about Millenium's work, once it is done, it'll last the lifetime of the engine.
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Old 11-06-2009, 04:51 PM
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MY SHIP TO ADDY IS IN YOUR MAILBOX !!!

What a great post thanks
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  #60 (permalink)  
Old 11-06-2009, 09:25 PM
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is 105/107 optimum for this set-up?
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