In Hord we Trust - Page 2

JBs_SP3 · #21 (**permalink**) 09-03-2009, 11:31 AM

Ah not exactly. Check out this post from Cutaway in another thread - it was partly what swayed me in that direction.

so who's massaged their motor?

You have a PM by the way.

**jhord** · #22 (**permalink**) 09-03-2009, 04:34 PM

Jeff- Email me, I h8te PM's... too many forums and too hard to keep track of.

Re: engine condition, it's not really that bad. I've seen better and worse. Cylinders have some scuffs on the thrust side, which isn't out of the ordinary on a RC51. She'll be all like new when it goes together.

I kinda forgot, but I already did a half-arsed/unfinished tech pictorial in the past... trouble is I can't remember whose engine it was!

RC-51 Engine Build

SubSailor · #23 (**permalink**) 09-06-2009, 01:58 AM

Durbahn doesn't make the clutch anymore.
I got the reply to my request this week.

**jhord** · #24 (**permalink**) 10-24-2009, 05:35 PM

OK, the build is underway. A few pics.

**jhord** · #25 (**permalink**) 10-24-2009, 05:41 PM

The cylinder block was refurbished by Millenium, I can't say enough good things about their work, I have been using them for years.

The crank was done by Falicon to their Supercrank "heavy" spec, meaning it was not lightened.

Pistons are off the shelf Wiseco, they are well-suited to this build spec and reasonably priced.

bensexcessbikes · #26 (**permalink**) 10-24-2009, 07:02 PM

Great build, thanks for the humongo pics too!

**mrgrn** · #27 (**permalink**) 10-24-2009, 07:14 PM

thanks for the pics Horde

**jhord** · #28 (**permalink**) 10-24-2009, 07:38 PM

More pics: 1) if you rebuild one of these, make sure you get the rods oriented correctly. The rods are front and rear specific, and they also have a chamfer that goes to the OUTSIDE. If you put them to the inside, it'll run about 10 seconds before the crank ties up. 2) Checking rod end play. .009", perfect. 3) block is built! 4) checking deck height. The piston is sitting about .017" below the deck, and the gasket is about .023" for .040" squish. That's pretty good.

That's it for now, time for the weekend!

**mrgrn** · #29 (**permalink**) 10-24-2009, 07:58 PM

i need a motor like that now

pigwax · #30 (**permalink**) 10-24-2009, 11:09 PM

Wish i had u'r ability JD , do u need place to stay in australia for a couple weeks mate?? Nice

RockyMt · #31 (**permalink**) 10-25-2009, 12:01 AM

Great pics, keep 'em coming!

-Rocky-

RVTMAVERICK · #32 (**permalink**) 10-25-2009, 02:33 AM

OMG!.... Look at the "polish job on that Crank!"..OPPS! LMAO... That didn't come out right, did it....

but now I'll say, Pun intented

Beautiful job there Mr.JHord,

I do have a question if I may,

Since you at one point had the case split... wouldn't it have been really good, to do the "Secondary Big Breather mod.,"? I know IF I had you doing my engine rebuild,...
I would have asked you to do it while you were in there.. Would You do this mod. IF asked to?

Again, Job Looks beautiful

Peace Jeff

PS. Nice looking Crank JD

Still LMAO

selfinfliction · #33 (**permalink**) 10-25-2009, 09:45 PM

what exactly is the purpose of polishing the counterweights? only thing i can think of is that it would lower the amount of oil being thrown by it?

beadrunner · #34 (**permalink**) 10-26-2009, 01:59 AM

I am going to ask a REALLY REALLY DUMB QUESTION I thought motorcycles had pressed cranks and roller bearings not babbit bearings

**jhord** · #35 (**permalink**) 10-26-2009, 01:42 PM

-- Yes, the counterweights are polished to reduce the amount of oil sticking to the crank, and also to help it cut thru the air/oil mist better. Whether this actually works, I am skeptical to be honest, but it seems to be a common feature of all aftermarket crank work. With Falicon, its just part of their Supercrank spec.

-- Most all modern motorcycle cranks are the plain bearing type. There are still a few that use roller big ends and mains, like F model dirtbikes, and some that are a hybrid like Ducati, which use plain big ends, and roller mains.

selfinfliction · #36 (**permalink**) 10-26-2009, 08:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jhord

-- Yes, the counterweights are polished to reduce the amount of oil sticking to the crank, and also to help it cut thru the air/oil mist better. Whether this actually works, I am skeptical to be honest, but it seems to be a common feature of all aftermarket crank work.

Something to do with shiny parts instantly being worth more may be an important factor. An oil shedding coating would work better at that than polishing

dstewart · #37 (**permalink**) 10-26-2009, 09:38 PM

Nice. It will should run very well for a long time.

desmo11 · #38 (**permalink**) 10-26-2009, 09:50 PM

Personally, I think the removal of the compensation springs in the Durbahn clutch basket is a real big mistake. They're not like Ducs, where the OEM at least, compensation is done in the inner basket.

Wiseco pin punching the intake squish gives me OCD fits. Exactly where one doesn't want it!

Anyhow, to the OP, you might want to wash that motor off once you get it, you don't know where JD's hands have been after all!!

PS-Hi JD.

**jhord** · #39 (**permalink**) 10-27-2009, 02:25 AM

The good thing about the pin punching, when the squish is right the heads say "YLNO ECAR." And I bet my hands aren't nearly as sticky as yours Bill.

Quote:

Originally Posted by desmo11

Wiseco pin punching the intake squish gives me OCD fits. Exactly where one doesn't want it!

Anyhow, to the OP, you might want to wash that motor off once you get it, you don't know where JD's hands have been after all!!

PS-Hi JD.

JBs_SP3 · #40 (**permalink**) 10-27-2009, 12:34 PM

Thanks for the heads-up but I'm having trouble imagining anything coming out of Ohio sanitation-wise that could give a Bangkok resident cause for concern.

Looking good J.D. How are the heads? I meant to ask: since the cams are Mori Stage I's not II's will the porting be the same as for OEM?