VTR 1000R SP1 (RC-51) Makis Edition - Speedzilla Motorcycle Message Forums
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post #1 of 109 (permalink) Old 07-10-2012, 12:39 PM Thread Starter
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VTR 1000R SP1 (RC-51) Makis Edition

This is my RC the next day I bought her



Previous owner had installed Marchesini wheels and an Ohlins rear shock. So he gave me the OEM parts too with the purchase.





The mileage when I bought her (in kilometers)



As you can also see, the prev owner had poorly installed a WP stabiliser by drilling the upper yoke directly


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post #2 of 109 (permalink) Old 07-10-2012, 12:40 PM Thread Starter
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First thing I did, was to take her home and give her a nice bath



Then I changed the oils and oil filter, giving her a detailed look too



In the pictures you will see that I have a pair of my brother's CBR1000RR '04 'Blade front brake rotors installed (he had installed Galfer wavy ones a few months before). That was because her OEM rotors were in bad shape and until I could afford a propper pair, I put those on. They were 310mm in diameter but I didn't have any other options at that time.


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post #3 of 109 (permalink) Old 07-10-2012, 12:41 PM Thread Starter
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Over the next months, even though my free time was limited, I managed to replace the stem bearings and make a full service to the front fork.











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post #4 of 109 (permalink) Old 07-10-2012, 12:42 PM Thread Starter
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I replaced it's 57mm throttle bodies, with those from an SP2 2004 along with the ECM and air box, dremeling the necessary modification on the heads













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post #5 of 109 (permalink) Old 07-10-2012, 12:43 PM Thread Starter
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Then the time came for the OEM S/O to go away. Even though I recently found out that the 2Bros S/O were not a good choice, at the time it was the best option I had.









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post #6 of 109 (permalink) Old 07-10-2012, 12:43 PM Thread Starter
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I aslo replased my OEM front calipers with a pair from the GSXR 750 2008 and my front master with one from a CBR 1000RR 2009 and installed a cheap pair of anodized levers.













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post #7 of 109 (permalink) Old 07-10-2012, 12:44 PM Thread Starter
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Next thing was a full set of SP2 radiators







I aslo modify the harness for the SP2 fans actuation











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post #8 of 109 (permalink) Old 07-10-2012, 12:44 PM Thread Starter
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Here you can see the holes on the top yoke, the prev owner drilled to install the WP stabiliser





Order a new V cowl for the oil cooler window that my OEM didn't have





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post #9 of 109 (permalink) Old 07-10-2012, 12:45 PM Thread Starter
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I sent all the grills for chrome coating (they don't come out that good in the pictures)





Tuned the bodies






And she was ready along with a new pair of front rotors from the same SP2 2004 I took the rads off



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post #10 of 109 (permalink) Old 07-10-2012, 12:46 PM Thread Starter
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On April 2011 her jewel came in hand from TYGA USA













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post #11 of 109 (permalink) Old 07-10-2012, 12:46 PM Thread Starter
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During last summer I also installed a PCIII USB with Dynojet's map for 2Bros S/O




and a LED tail light like this one and it looks realy great!







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Last edited by MakisRC51; 07-11-2012 at 07:37 AM.
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post #12 of 109 (permalink) Old 07-10-2012, 12:48 PM Thread Starter
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All of the SP2 used OEM parts were purchased from RC51Parts.com :: Home (thanks again Ben )
When I installed the SP2 ECM I didn't thought about it much, and I just pluged it on my OEM harness as well as the throttle bodies. She fired up like before with no problems.
When I was about to install the SP2 radiators, having purchased the HRC Tuning Box, I decided I should give a good look to my harness and see how it actually is constructed.
So I sat down with the diagrams of
1) SP1 OEM harness
2) SP2 OEM harness
3) HRC racing harness

and I modified mine to a hybrid so that
1) The SP2 fans work as they did on the SP2 harness: they are engaged directly from the ECM through a headlight relay when in SP1 there's a grounding thermal valve (switch) bolted in the left radiator which closes the fan's circuit to kick in.
2) The HRC Tuning Box could be pluged on if, at some point in the future, I get my hands on an NL6 racing ECM (here in Greece Honda dealer is sold as a kit with the harness for $4500 )
3) I removed the rev limiter as well (I found it's existance reading the HRC harness's diagram. Later on I came accross rc51.org modifications)










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post #13 of 109 (permalink) Old 07-10-2012, 12:49 PM Thread Starter
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In November 2011 I purchased these two beautiful carbon pieces



I chose the plain carbon option and they are very good in quality.
The only downside was the rear hugger that on it's right side it covers the whole half of the swingarm. I used a dremel cutter to make it look like it's left side (the one in the picture). It was quite easy mod to do.
Part where purchased from here


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post #14 of 109 (permalink) Old 07-10-2012, 12:50 PM Thread Starter
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We take off the caliper and the pads out of it. Then we pump the master cylinder 3-4 times so that the caliper's pistons come out a bit more.

WARNING: While pumping the master cylinder, we keep our eyes to the brake fluid inside the cylinder's bottle so that it doesn't come too low and suck air in the system.

Then we use a panetrating oil product, or clean fresh brake fluid soaking an old toothbrush in it and we clean the caliper's pistons from the dirt






After cleaning every surface that we have access to on the pistons, we use a circlip's pair of pliers to rotate the pistons 180 degrees to clean it thoroughly all around.











After that, we press the pistons all the way back in and install the pads and the calipers.
Then by pressing the brake lever repeatedly, we make sure that we have full pressure on it and test the brakes carefully before riding the bike.
If the lever still feels spongy we may need to make a good system's bleeding proceedure to be sure. After all our life depends on its best working condition.

WARNING: If we need to add some brake fluid in the bottle, we do so with the caliper's pistons full in and before we start pressing the lever. When we start to press the lever at the end, the bottle should be OK on fluid level and closed properly. The diaphragm, inside the bottle, should not have big air gap from the fluid's surface.


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post #15 of 109 (permalink) Old 07-10-2012, 12:51 PM Thread Starter
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Back in 2008

Since I bought the RC I noticed the cush drive problem with Marchesinis.



It was clear back then that I had to replace them. So I went to the Marchesini dealer in Greece (70 miles ride) and had a chat with him.

Long story short (at that time) was that:
1) Marchesini doesn't use this kind of cush drives any more to the newer wheel models so he didn't had any in stock. On top of that he should order a 5 piece set from Italy for me but they would not be delivered in less than 3 months period
2) They would cost me $31 each

So back then I only paid the price on a set he found on a wheel in his stock that has been left from a pair he separated some time ago. Total of $155 and I was ready to go.

Today

Since then I was trying to find a Japan cush to replace them for good.
Last year, when I inspected them, I saw that they where starting to show waer and tear marks so I was very careful with the throttle and used a lot of clutch to extend their life until I find something.



Finally I found it....


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post #16 of 109 (permalink) Old 07-10-2012, 12:51 PM Thread Starter
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I took my Marchs for graphite coating which is totally different from the usual soap brushing it is used on aluminum parts. The result is just awesome!









It cost me $100 each rim but it worth it.....totally!

Next in schedule where the cush drives.

I remembered that my CBR 400RR '89 (NC23) I had before, uses same shapped cush drives



Parts No 2 & 3





So I bought 5 used pieces for $10 to see if it could work....


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post #17 of 109 (permalink) Old 07-10-2012, 12:52 PM Thread Starter
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Each one is 32mm thick....Marchesini's are 16mm

So I start cutting away some





Then I drilled the spacers to 16mm hole (from the 14mm they were)...



...and cut them in 16mm length



Then I used an angle sander to grind away some rubber and make them 16mm thick as well.









and.....


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post #18 of 109 (permalink) Old 07-10-2012, 12:52 PM Thread Starter
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Got myself a new TALON rear sprocket 39T/530 for a new drive combo. I've already installed a 15T front so I will see how it will go.





Then took out the OEM SP1 wheels to transfer the BT016's which are fairily new





This is the result of using OEM rear brake pads on a Galfer rear brake rotor



.......replaced them with new OEMs!


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post #19 of 109 (permalink) Old 07-10-2012, 12:53 PM Thread Starter
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Then it was time for a few check ups









changed the brake/clutch fluids as well as the front brake pads with these



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post #20 of 109 (permalink) Old 07-10-2012, 12:53 PM Thread Starter
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Took out the air filters and removed the noise suppressor













Next time I'll go with either SP1 air filters or two left SP2's


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