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post #61 of 109 (permalink) Old 03-19-2013, 06:46 PM Thread Starter
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Offset on Honda rotors is 13mm each.
On Aprilia/Ducati rotors is 10.5mm





I sent an email to Marchesini. The wheel models for Honda were equipped with these gold adapters for the rotors.
The wheel models for Aprilia/Ducati where NOT equipped with any rotor adapters. Brake rotors were bolt right on the wheel.
Totally different wheel hubs.

A pair of decent OEM Aprilia OZ wheels (cause I can't buy just the front one) from 2006 onwards on eBay, costs (used) around £900 plus shipping. Not an option for me.....

I am still on research...


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post #62 of 109 (permalink) Old 03-19-2013, 08:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MakisRC51 View Post
Offset on Honda rotors is 13mm each.
On Aprilia/Ducati rotors is 10.5mm



I sent an email to Marchesini. The wheel models for Honda were equipped with these gold adapters for the rotors.
The wheel models for Aprilia/Ducati where NOT equipped with any rotor adapters. Brake rotors were bolt right on the wheel.
Totally different wheel hubs.

A pair of decent OEM Aprilia OZ wheels (cause I can't buy just the front one) from 2006 onwards on eBay, costs (used) around £900 plus shipping. Not an option for me.....

I am still on research...
That sheet is from the distributor, and they are including (half) the thickness of the rotor. Still get the same answers with my math.

Ducati:
http://www.oppracing.com/images/cmsu...0oppracing.pdf

Honda:
http://www.oppracing.com/images/cmsu...0oppracing.pdf

If the Ducati/Ape rotors won't bolt up to the wheel (pattern may be off?), Then it is off to make some custom brackets that look just like the ones on there, but with 2.5mm less offset per side. Shouldn't really be very expensive if you can show them what you have already and what changes need to be made.

If you want to risk it, you could try shaving the brackets you have, but I wouldn't do it.


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post #63 of 109 (permalink) Old 03-20-2013, 12:29 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by b.miller123 View Post
That sheet is from the distributor, and they are including (half) the thickness of the rotor. Still get the same answers with my math.

Ducati:
http://www.oppracing.com/images/cmsu...0oppracing.pdf

Honda:
http://www.oppracing.com/images/cmsu...0oppracing.pdf

If the Ducati/Ape rotors won't bolt up to the wheel (pattern may be off?), Then it is off to make some custom brackets that look just like the ones on there, but with 2.5mm less offset per side. Shouldn't really be very expensive if you can show them what you have already and what changes need to be made.

If you want to risk it, you could try shaving the brackets you have, but I wouldn't do it.
Thank you very much for your trouble b.miller
Of course I don't want to shave off my carriers.
I already draw down on paper the new carriers and talked to a guy in UK that will be able to make them true.
However I am waiting for the rotors to come in so that I verify my measurements.
And wondering if I will go for 6061, 7075 (Dan Kyle link) or stainless as the material to make them off of.


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post #64 of 109 (permalink) Old 03-29-2013, 07:38 PM Thread Starter
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Good news......

The pivot came out with a lot of propane heating and sledge hammering......

Rust was piling like dirt while the pivot was coming out......

Good thing (the best) is that the frame's thread was not damaged eventually.....

Enjoy

Bearing stickin' out











But it finally came off



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post #65 of 109 (permalink) Old 03-29-2013, 07:39 PM Thread Starter
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The swing arm's collars





Salt corrosion from the last ride (comparison picture)



Bearing pushed out of the swingarm



Frame's thread section







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post #66 of 109 (permalink) Old 03-29-2013, 07:41 PM Thread Starter
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Well....got up...made some coffee and went to my garage.

The swingarm was off the other day so it was time for damage control.

First started off with cleaning the rear set's threads



The swingarm's pivot shows big corrosion zone on the LH collar but none on the RH.



And that is what troubles me.

If anything, this side should be always greasy and oily from the chain's lubricant debris.....


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post #67 of 109 (permalink) Old 03-29-2013, 07:42 PM Thread Starter
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The big problem was the frame's threaded section



From all the hummer hitting it had been damaged on the outer thread a bit. Thankfully not in any inner threads.
Once again I give my total respect to THAT ERA'S Honda for the excellent aluminum alloy the frame is made off.

So how should I proceed on fixing those threads?

The correct solution was to buy a M36x1.5 tap from a tool store.
However it is pretty big so on eBay the go for 100 pounds
Plus I would have to wait for over a week for the tap to get here.


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post #68 of 109 (permalink) Old 03-29-2013, 07:43 PM Thread Starter
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The threaded collar was a bit damaged too at it's outer threads from pushing the pivot to rotate.
So I took the Dremel grinder and started to carefully grind it's outer threads.....then suddenly hit me:

Why not make a tap out of this collar's edge?

I mean, that collar is from iron alloy so it could work fine against the frame's aluminum alloy

All I needed to do was to sharpen it up a bit

So....





Fixed a lamp to bright things up



And then, start screw it in from the engine's side where the frame's threads were good



You can see the excess aluminum on the collar's tips



I used the pivot itself as the tool to rotate the collar when the sharp edge hit the damaged threads and start repairing them.



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post #69 of 109 (permalink) Old 03-29-2013, 07:44 PM Thread Starter
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After finishing the thread's cleaning on both frame's sides, it was time to sandpaper the pivot. First a 200, then a 600 and it became like new....



Then I tried to insert the pivot in the engine's hub tunnel at the rear.....

Guess what.....it wouldn't go past the half way on either L or R side I tried.

The engine's hub had rust in there and made it very narrow for the pivot even if I hit it softly with the mallet.....it wouldn't go all the way across.

So.....

How do you clean the hub in there?


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post #70 of 109 (permalink) Old 03-29-2013, 07:44 PM Thread Starter
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Well it wasn't that hard to figure it out

I took my valve grinding compound



Put some inside the hub and on the pivot and start pushing the pivot in and out while rotating it at the same time......

It practically grinded the rust away itself



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post #71 of 109 (permalink) Old 03-29-2013, 07:45 PM Thread Starter
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So after ten minutes of grinding the pivot in the hub, it became so smooth that could push it all the way in with my hand without force at all.

The threaded collars could both bolt on the frame's threads by hand and without force...

So all good.

Time for the swingarm....

This is the LH side and you see one of the two damaged seals on the collar



Here is the rest of the seal and you can see how far inside the needle bearing went from all the pushing



And here's a view on the other side of it



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post #72 of 109 (permalink) Old 03-29-2013, 07:46 PM Thread Starter
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So I took all of them off the swingarm





The two ball bearing on the RH side are damaged too....



And this is another question I have for Honda:

Why put an one side sealed ball bearing in there?
Wouldn't be more correct and more logical to use a 2RS (both sides sealed) ball bearing?


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post #73 of 109 (permalink) Old 03-29-2013, 07:46 PM Thread Starter
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And this is another question I have for Honda:

Why put an one side sealed ball bearing in there?
Wouldn't be more correct and more logical to use a 2RS (both sides sealed) ball bearing?
I really don't understand that.

These two bearings are wide open and unsealed towards each other where they meet the spacer (#10 on the schematic).
Is there a reason for that?
I am NOT going to replace them with the OEM. I'm gonna order a couple of both side sealed KOYO ball bearings.

And another observation here is that if the HRC had put a bit of grease on the pivot during assembly, even 13 years ago, it would still come off easy and wouldn't be that much corroded as it were.
I mean, the pivot is so tight inside the collars and the engine hub that I believe the grease would had stayed on it even as a small film if the most of it had gone throughout time all those years.


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post #74 of 109 (permalink) Old 03-29-2013, 07:47 PM Thread Starter
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Now it was time to clean the dirtiest part of the bike





Toothbrush did the job fine where needed



Until everything was shinny again....



The only dirtiest job in the world than that, is this



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post #75 of 109 (permalink) Old 03-29-2013, 07:48 PM Thread Starter
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Took the oil out.....it was in excellent condition though....only worked for 3100 miles



Put a new copper washer and closed it up.

Then it was time for the flapper mod......for the last 4 years I just had it on with the vacuum hose removed.







With a clear view of the air filter



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post #76 of 109 (permalink) Old 03-29-2013, 07:49 PM Thread Starter
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Cleaned the old grease off the Kyle link



And put some fresh marine grease.





This grease is so sticky that even washing your hands with cleaning compound, won't come off completely.....special designed for outboard engines to endure with sea water

Cleaned the swingarm's collars too so that they move free over the pivot



Stuff ready to be bolted on when the time comes





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post #77 of 109 (permalink) Old 03-29-2013, 07:49 PM Thread Starter
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At that moment, I found it a good opportunity to take a couple of comparing measurements on the shock links....



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post #78 of 109 (permalink) Old 07-03-2013, 12:17 PM Thread Starter
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780mm from the floor for the Showa...



...and 760 for the Ohlins



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post #79 of 109 (permalink) Old 07-03-2013, 12:18 PM Thread Starter
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Here are the two lower yokes...





Took off the bearing's balls from the RC OEM bottom yoke and fit them on the Mille's. Fitted like a glove on the yoke and inside the frames lower ball's race



The only problem is here



So all I need is to design and have made an exact copy of the RC's spindle.


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post #80 of 109 (permalink) Old 07-03-2013, 12:18 PM Thread Starter
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After a couple of thoughts, tests and trials, I've come to a dilemma...

1) Keep the RC's OEM triples and just have them bored to the Ohlins 56/51mm fork diameter?

That way I can keep the original RC's 213mm offset and the Honda look on the upper one which I adore.

Having the RC's OEM lower/upper triples bored at 56/51mm is not much of a trouble.





The differences are minimal and as I see it, milling 2mm of aluminum on each of the lower triple fork's holes won't effect the structure's strength.





The material in black will be removed



2) Have a lower triple's spindle made, copying the RC's OEM one, and have it pressed in the Ohlins' lower yoke so that it can fit on the frame.

That way though, I must use the Aprilia upper triple due to the 10mm shorter offset which makes the Aprilia lower and the Honda upper triples incompatible. Showa's (OEM) offset is 213mm.



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