VTR 1000R SP1 (RC-51) Makis Edition - Page 3 - Speedzilla Motorcycle Message Forums
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post #41 of 109 (permalink) Old 10-17-2012, 03:49 AM Thread Starter
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So I went with the OEM weights for now.







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post #42 of 109 (permalink) Old 10-17-2012, 02:54 PM
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Nice job mate.
Ωραιος ο Μακης
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post #43 of 109 (permalink) Old 10-17-2012, 03:44 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by manosamos View Post
Nice job mate.
Ωραιος ο Μακης
Thanx for the compliments
Να'σαι καλά φιλαράκι


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post #44 of 109 (permalink) Old 10-17-2012, 03:44 PM Thread Starter
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Wednesday morning, got back from night shift and started right up.

Fuel filter and pump's gasket



Remove the pump



On the work bench



Remove old filter



New in place



On the left is the new gasket. The old one is 12 years old



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post #45 of 109 (permalink) Old 10-17-2012, 03:45 PM Thread Starter
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Then I cut up the old filter to see what 15.000km have done to it









A bit of dirt on the bottom



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post #46 of 109 (permalink) Old 10-17-2012, 03:45 PM Thread Starter
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Last but not least...stabilizer time!







Stabilizer to top yoke clearance



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post #47 of 109 (permalink) Old 10-28-2012, 09:23 PM Thread Starter
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Checking the charging system

I made this video today on how we can make sure that our battery charging system works properly.

First I connected the DC Voltmeter on battery's terminals.
A normal charging reading is between 13,5V and 15V max. We measure it at idle engine speed and at 4000rpm with high beams on and off.

If the reading are less than 13,5V DC on the battery's terminals, we then proceed to step two: measure the AC voltage on the stator.

If the stator voltage readings are OK on all three wire pairs then we need to replace the regulator/rectifier. If not, then we need to replace the stator coils.

When we disconnect the reg/rec's connector, in order to take the stator's measurements, we need to have a fully charged and healthy battery, which, after we finish measuring, we need to give it a full charge.
If our battery isn't in that good condition, it is better to jump it's terminals with a car's battery (NOT from one with running engine!!!) so that the whole bike can have the energy that needs to run and keep the bike's battery safe from over-draining since it's not being charged through the procedure.
There is no compromising for the reg/rec or the stator as long as the 3 yellow wire connector is disconnected.

Code:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E8Tfdht6exA&feature=youtu.be


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post #48 of 109 (permalink) Old 12-03-2012, 03:07 AM
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I'm 1/3rd of the way through page one and already extremely impressed. Thx for sharing this. Much appreciated.

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2015 Triumph Rocket III Roadster


Sour grapes are a lesser man's fruit.

Quote:
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The [fact] that the RC45 was a "relative failure" is what matters most...
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post #49 of 109 (permalink) Old 03-01-2013, 01:00 PM Thread Starter
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Just for an update of the situation..

At January the 13th me and my BMW F800GS buddy, decided to go for a ride.
It has been over 3 months that we rode around due to a lot of work and bad weather so we needed a brake.
The days before the 13th, the weather was awful with lots of raining and cold.
But the forecast was optimal for that day. Lots of sunshine in most of the country. However the cold would still be there but we have our gear, right?

So off we went on the highway, and our plan was to climb a couple of twisty mountains, but we knew that until noon the shadowed parts of the turns would be dangerous due to wet and maybe icy asphalt.

Up to some point everything was good. Very gold environment but the sun helped a lot.

And then it started to get F***CKED up......I mean really!

In every shady part of the road was a 3-5mm film of ice and at the road's sides was a lot of salt.....damn salt!

Up ahead, entering a large downhill right turn with 25km/h on my clocks, trying to brake the RC ONLY with the clutch (I had removed my right hand's fingers of the front brake lever), I see a guy waving his hands saying to me to slow down.

Well......I AM trying to do so, you dumbass.....

Point is that his buddy had just laid down his BMW R1200 and got hurt a bit on his knee. We pulled over and check on them and we left. He was ok and his bike able to be ridden.

After a couple of miles we pulled over again cause I couldn't feel my legs from the ankles down from the cold.



Up ahead was another icy part.....the asphalt is NOT wet. It's pure ICE.



Here is a picture with the ice melting up ahead and creating a fog



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post #50 of 109 (permalink) Old 03-01-2013, 01:01 PM Thread Starter
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Long story short, I got back home late and it was already dark so I parked my RC in her nest and went to sleep.
Next morning got up at 5:00 to go to work and it was still dark so I didn't check on the RC......didn't think I had to, actually.

Around 16:00 that I got home from work, I went to check on her....wasn't sure why but we had a really rough ride.....just making sure everything was ok.

And then the stroke came.....multiple times..









Even the OEM caliper bolts where corroded



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post #51 of 109 (permalink) Old 03-01-2013, 01:02 PM Thread Starter
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You can see some salt remains on the Ohlins



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post #52 of 109 (permalink) Old 03-01-2013, 01:03 PM Thread Starter
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Now for the last month I am trying to gather all the stuff I will need to make her spotless again but due to this financial crisis around here, it is really hard. But not impossible.

I have already bought these for dirt cheap price











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post #53 of 109 (permalink) Old 03-01-2013, 01:04 PM Thread Starter
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post #54 of 109 (permalink) Old 03-01-2013, 01:05 PM Thread Starter
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My jewelry came in a couple of days ago......









Still a long way to go....


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post #55 of 109 (permalink) Old 03-01-2013, 01:05 PM Thread Starter
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So got home from work to do a couple of measurements.

First put her on the ramp and took off the front fender and loosen up the wheel...







Then assembled the Ohlins front fork so that the wheel axle is perfectly aligned..









First attempt to put the wheel in the fork was looking promising...



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post #56 of 109 (permalink) Old 03-01-2013, 01:06 PM Thread Starter
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Took the 22mm adapters off the wheel bearings and the 25mm Ohlins axle could be inserted perfectly all the way through. The spacers needed for this set up to work is not a big deal....










Then I bolted the calipers on the forks and....what a surprise.....Honda brake rotors's offset is larger than the Brembo calipers' by 5mm....







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post #57 of 109 (permalink) Old 03-01-2013, 01:09 PM Thread Starter
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What I basically need actually is the brake rotor's spacers (a.k.a adapters or carriers) used on this Marchesini front wheel when it is about to be mounted on a 2009 RSV 1000R Factory bike.....

Just a pair of spacers (a.k.a adapters or carriers)....any ideas or clues anyone?


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post #58 of 109 (permalink) Old 03-02-2013, 09:59 PM
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brembo hrc

arent the brembo's for the RC51 (HRC) 5MM offset difference???? Theres been a set on ebay recently.
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post #59 of 109 (permalink) Old 03-18-2013, 08:58 PM
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Why wouldnt you just use the Aprilia front wheel (I think that was the front end you're using)


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post #60 of 109 (permalink) Old 03-19-2013, 06:04 PM
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You have a couple options:

Like you said, find the rotor adapter bracket that is supposed to be used for the Aprilia front wheel.

The bracket may not even exist, since some years of the Aprilia's used the same exact size rotors (and rotor mating face width) as Ducati (996 series), which I think the Marchesini wheels used the same pattern.

That pattern is 80mm with 6 bolts. Measure what you have on your wheels, where the adapter bracket bolts to. That will tell you if you can just bolt the Ducati/Aprilia rotors to your wheels and lose the gold adapters. But, you still need to see if that will get you to an offset that works.

Stock RC51 rotor Offset: 10.25mm
996/Aprilia rotor Offset: 7.5mm

So, by changing rotors, you'll lose 2.75mm per side, for a total of 5.5mm less offset. The issue is that those adapters that are on your wheels increase the offset of the rotor mounting face. So when you take them off and mount rotors directly to the wheel, you'll lose even more offset. It is easy to make this up with some shims that can easily be cut on a waterjet and placed in between the wheel and the rotor.


You can do all that, and keep the wheels you have now, or just buy a wheel for the Aprilia and mount it up just like stock. Oh, and I will also mention that you should do something about the corrosion on those magnesium wheels. It can ruin them rather quickly.


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