VTR 1000R SP1 (RC-51) Makis Edition - Page 2 - Speedzilla Motorcycle Message Forums
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post #21 of 109 (permalink) Old 07-10-2012, 12:54 PM Thread Starter
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Last touch for my eyes only, an HRC triple nut plug





.....and she's ready for my tomorrow's day off.





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Last edited by MakisRC51; 10-14-2012 at 06:54 AM.
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post #22 of 109 (permalink) Old 07-10-2012, 01:01 PM Thread Starter
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Special thanks to Mr.moto for his excellent support to me on purchasing a Shorai LFX battery for my girl.





Thank you very much Martin for everything. I will be happy to do business with you again anytime!


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post #23 of 109 (permalink) Old 07-10-2012, 04:12 PM
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Wow! Excellent job documenting everything with photos. I like living vicariously through them too as though I had the money to buy that nice stuff.

She looks great!
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post #24 of 109 (permalink) Old 07-10-2012, 04:38 PM
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Such a mint rc, good work.

I`m not addicted to coke, I just like the smell.
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post #25 of 109 (permalink) Old 07-11-2012, 07:31 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks a lot guys for your kind words.

Here are some picts from her last oils and coolant change











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Last edited by MakisRC51; 07-11-2012 at 07:57 AM.
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post #26 of 109 (permalink) Old 07-12-2012, 06:03 PM Thread Starter
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Installing the Shorai

This morning was the day.....
Got myself some coffee and got started.

I started with the Yuasa (OEM) 12Ah that was already installed on the bike.
It was fully charged and showing 12.85V on the voltmeter, with the RC fully OFF, before testing!

1) I connected the Amp meter and switched on the RC, so the fuel pump primed and I observed the readings (Amps)

As you can see, the readings are possitive (+) so no polarity sign appears in front of the number and that means that the current is flowing outwards the battery.
The fuel pump is consuming 4.4 Amps and it settles down to 0.5A (fuel pump relay engaged consumption).

2) Next step is starting the bike and observe the charging Amps (first at iddle, then at 5000rpm and then with lights on)

3) Took out the Yuasa 12Ah OEM battery and weight it (numbers in grams)



and then I weight the Shorai



2,56kg lighter (~5.64lbs)

4) Installed the Shorai battery and primed the fuel pump (everything the same with the Yuasa so far)

5) Started the bike and here is where it get interesting......
At idle, the battery is still giving current to the charging system

With the lights on and at more than 2000rpm the battery starts to receive current (charging status) so the (-) sign appears on the Amp meter.

That last effect was the whole difference after all.

The bike has a more linear idling than before (no more small pauses like all V-Twins sound like),
very powerfull start cranking and while riding in low rpm it is like it is plugged on a generator.......darn


Conclusions?
If you haven't installed a Shorai yet, DO IT RIGHT NOW!!!!
Go for the 18Ah cause the price difference is minimal to what you'll get


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post #27 of 109 (permalink) Old 07-12-2012, 06:21 PM
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Excellent write-up.
-M


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post #28 of 109 (permalink) Old 07-12-2012, 06:55 PM
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very nice, I'd love the oppostunity to come to Greece and see what is up with your shop and riding adventures. nice RC!
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post #29 of 109 (permalink) Old 07-13-2012, 12:36 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CORNER_MONSTER View Post
very nice, I'd love the oppostunity to come to Greece and see what is up with your shop and riding adventures. nice RC!
You're welcome to come anytime you want.......bring your RC as well though!


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post #30 of 109 (permalink) Old 07-14-2012, 11:36 PM
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Nice project.. I sold my VTR SP1 & get FZ1s. Hi, is there any NSR MC28 racing gearing lying around in Greece ?

My RC51:Endurance race fairing,Hyper Pro 3D Rear Shock & Front Linear Spring,Hyper Pro Height Raiser Kit,Gp Pro Gear Indicator,Brembo RCS Master Pump,Turn1 Kevlar Airbox & CF Intake,520 Chain 15/44,Power Race Tyre,Rumble Undertray,Flapper Valve,Pair Removal Mod,Rockwall Clipon,HRC 1/6 Fast Trottle,EBC HH Brake Pad, Scorpion SS Slipon Race Can,Harris Rear Set, Carbon Stator & Clutch CF Cover, Samco Rad Hose,JE Piston...more to come...:twocents :twocents :twocents
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post #31 of 109 (permalink) Old 07-15-2012, 02:12 PM
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Wow, great job man. Awesome pictures.

2008 CBR 1000rr (Track)
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post #32 of 109 (permalink) Old 07-28-2012, 06:48 PM Thread Starter
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RC51 Chain Cleaning and Washing the Beast! - YouTube


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post #33 of 109 (permalink) Old 07-31-2012, 07:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MakisRC51 View Post
Took out the air filters and removed the noise suppressor













Next time I'll go with either SP1 air filters or two left SP2's
Great thread really enjoyed it and the bike look awesome

Which brake pads would you recommend with the galfer discs and did the cbr radial mc make much of a difference ?
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post #34 of 109 (permalink) Old 08-23-2012, 12:32 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mighty max View Post
Nice project.. I sold my VTR SP1 & get FZ1s. Hi, is there any NSR MC28 racing gearing lying around in Greece ?
I would get those in a chains & sprockets shop like anywhere else, if I wanted new ones.
If you mean used ones, then I guess there aren't any lying around....those bikes are hard to find here any more. And if you eventually find one, it's condition would be quite disappointing.


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post #35 of 109 (permalink) Old 08-23-2012, 12:40 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by SP2rider View Post
Which brake pads would you recommend with the galfer discs and did the cbr radial mc make much of a difference ?
I am not very fond of the Galfer rotors.....I believe you can get a nice brembo set with almost the same amount of money.
Anyways, with Galfer rotors I found out that Carbon Lorraine pads are very good in performance and don't wear out very fast. Plus they seem to interact quite good with Galfer discs.
The radial mc does a remarkable job, I can tell you. Of course I don't take it as the best brake tuning but for the $90 I paid for it, I believe I am more than covered for my once in a while street riding/cornering.
I also found that the Brembo pads I put, give me a very good grabbing feeling on the OEM rotors, so that makes the radial mc's job a bit more easier so I have more room to "limit" it out.
Practically right now I can do the 200km/h --> 60km/h with just 2 digits and with no sweat at all...


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post #36 of 109 (permalink) Old 10-14-2012, 02:28 AM
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Thumbs up Rc

Great write up...........your bike is awesome. Great work too!
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post #37 of 109 (permalink) Old 10-14-2012, 06:45 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the nice comments!


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post #38 of 109 (permalink) Old 10-14-2012, 06:49 AM Thread Starter
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post #39 of 109 (permalink) Old 10-17-2012, 03:48 AM Thread Starter
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Tuesday morning the October 16th....
I decided to install the rizoma grips for start. The steering dumper comes next.
I also have to change the fuel filter and the fuel pump's gasket.
Fuel filter is on for almost 25.000km and the gasket has been never replaced so it's a 12 year old gasket

The day's parts



Remove tank, airbox and release the throttle cable from the TBs



Remove the throttle tube and cleaned the clip on



As you can see in the first picture, the rizoma throttle grip has 2 installing options rings.
2 stroke (large outer diameter) on the left
4 stroke (smaller outer diameter) on the right

I chose to go with the 2 stroke ring.
Turns out that works fine and made me a 1/4 turn throttle.

I'll see how it goes and if I am not pleased with it, I will go back to 4 stroke ring.


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post #40 of 109 (permalink) Old 10-17-2012, 03:48 AM Thread Starter
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But the rizoma bar weights don't fit right in.
There is a space from 9mm on the deepest spot




to 7mm on the shallow one




on the inner OEM weight.



I will remove the inner weight on a later operation to install different weight mounting.
I've got an idea that it might work excellent.....we'll see


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