SP2 DIY Fork seal replacement - Page 3 - Speedzilla Motorcycle Message Forums
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post #41 of 53 (permalink) Old 05-24-2013, 02:39 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by simonkobe View Post
looks like I will have to do this,so thanks again for the write up
Happy to help! Post up here or on the RC51 forums (this post is there too) if you have any questions.

I highly suggest you spend some money on a proper spring compressor and don't build one like I did


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post #42 of 53 (permalink) Old 05-28-2013, 04:54 PM
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thanks for the info!
actually will let Ladybird take care of it as he has all the tools
also I will be getting the stantions DLC coated black,so should look pretty cool as well as having a bit better performance

not too expensive maybe
coating is about 200us per fork with another 70 or so labour to remove the fork lower etc
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post #43 of 53 (permalink) Old 05-28-2013, 11:23 PM
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I love the DIY spirit but that spring compressor strap contraption belongs in a midevil dungeon!!!! Hahhahaha j/k B!!!

Don't worry your dogs/cats too are safe ...FOR NOW
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post #44 of 53 (permalink) Old 05-29-2013, 12:49 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simonkobe View Post
thanks for the info!
actually will let Ladybird take care of it as he has all the tools
also I will be getting the stantions DLC coated black,so should look pretty cool as well as having a bit better performance

not too expensive maybe
coating is about 200us per fork with another 70 or so labour to remove the fork lower etc
That is going to look slick. I was tempted to do that too, but the fork seal change was a last minute affair.

Quote:
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I love the DIY spirit but that spring compressor strap contraption belongs in a midevil dungeon!!!! Hahhahaha j/k B!!!
I know, I felt horrible doing it. The thing looked like some kind of torture device. Never again! A racetech spring compressor will be ordered before I do seals on a set of usd forks again.


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post #45 of 53 (permalink) Old 05-29-2013, 05:28 PM
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Originally Posted by b.miller123 View Post
That is going to look slick. I was tempted to do that too, but the fork seal change was a last minute affair.



I know, I felt horrible doing it. The thing looked like some kind of torture device. Never again! A racetech spring compressor will be ordered before I do seals on a set of usd forks again.
With your DIY style, you should just make one. I owned the Racetech spring compressor and can tell you it is rather simple to make. A tap and die set would be useful. Much cheaper and I would improved on the tool. If you go this route. I can tell you my thoughts on what to improve.

Your tool did beat the racetech in one other area. It is hands-free while, doing the seals/spring swap by myself was rather interesting with the correct tools.

Don't worry your dogs/cats too are safe ...FOR NOW
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post #46 of 53 (permalink) Old 05-30-2013, 02:38 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by 3stripes View Post
With your DIY style, you should just make one. I owned the Racetech spring compressor and can tell you it is rather simple to make. A tap and die set would be useful. Much cheaper and I would improved on the tool. If you go this route. I can tell you my thoughts on what to improve.

Your tool did beat the racetech in one other area. It is hands-free while, doing the seals/spring swap by myself was rather interesting with the correct tools.
I have given that some thought in the past. One more excuse to buy a welder (as if I need more). I haven't done any welding in about 15 years though. I was decent back in high school.

They do have two different versions of the spring compressor. One is threaded, and one uses a long lever. The threaded one seems like it would be pretty hand free after tightening it down:





You can see the lower one in action here:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gWNeV...u66QUNS#t=273s


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post #47 of 53 (permalink) Old 05-31-2013, 01:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by b.miller123 View Post
They do have two different versions of the spring compressor. One is threaded, and one uses a long lever. The threaded one seems like it would be pretty hand free after tightening it down:



It is. I use it just for holding the spring back to access the jamb nut on the end of the damper rod. I think you're suposed to mount it in a vice but don't bother.
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post #48 of 53 (permalink) Old 04-11-2016, 03:04 AM
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Question Spring Compression Tool Release Stored Energy

Hello,

I just recently purchased a used 2005 RC51. Want to do some track days. The bike has been sitting for "A LONG" time. Needs some love. But that's ok. Good project learning bike for me.

Anyway, left fork seal has been leaking for probably a decade. Rotor looks in bad shape and brake pads are probably junk. I'm trying to do the seal myself. I looked at your excellent write up and I think I can do it. But I'm stumped on one section. I can't figure our from our pictures how the spring compression tool works. And more importantly during reassembly when the spring is compressed and your storing all that energy how do you softly release the spring compression tool? The holes in the white spring collar seem to go up inside the blue fork cap. With the 11mm and 14mm wrenches and the spring compression release I just can't visualize the order of operations.

Any additional tricks of the trade specifically on the spring compression and release would be greatly appreciated.

Best regards,

Kurt
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post #49 of 53 (permalink) Old 04-15-2016, 02:21 PM
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Make Your Own Tools, Save $$$

First - a HUGE THANK YOU to BMILLER, this post was my guide to doing this work myself. I had done my 2000 RC forks years ago, but my 2002 model forks are a bit different (as you know if you read this thread).

Second, I don't believe I have ever bought a Honda Special tool in all my years doing my own work. In some cases this has cost me a lot of time but hey, I'm cheap. Here are two examples of what I worked with last week to complete my forks rebuild.

Spring compressor - Use a large wood clamp and two ratchet tie downs. Add a couple hooks fashioned from coat hanger and you are good to go.

Bushing/Seal Driver - 2" PVC pipe, and a half hour with a saw/dremel/sander. Need to get the last inch or so of the tool small enough to fit inside the top of the fork tube. Split it down the middle, and wrap around the slider, I used package tape to help hold it together. Use the weight of the slider/axle holder to tap it down.

WELL I have nice pics of both these but it won't upload them for some reason, keeps failing. I did resize them to under 250kb first.
What's up with that.

Last edited by heatmizr; 04-15-2016 at 02:51 PM.
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post #50 of 53 (permalink) Old 04-15-2016, 04:03 PM
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KURT -
I sent out my forks to be modified when I first bought the bike, but they have a ~2" spacer above the larger white spring collar. So the smaller spacer actually sits up inside the blue cap, and the holes on the larger collar you mention do not go up far enough to be under there. I am thinking that even stock there is something similar in that place; I can't quite tell from Brian's pics if there is a smaller spacer in there or not. However, even if not, you should still be able to grab the larger white collar/spacer and pull it down enough by hand to see the holes even if they were tucked up under the blue cap. You can push it down an inch before the tension of the main spring becomes to strong.

Since I can't upload my pics for some reason, shoot me a mail at toddggg at gmail.com and I will be happy to help you, as I just did all this last week and its fresh in my mind. I took a lot of pics while doing this (and other work) and can send them to you.

Another Tip / home made tool for the damper rod holder - I took a piece of metal tubing from a floor lamp and cut the bottom end to have tabs that would slide inside the fork slider tube and engage the notches of the damper rod, to allow me to hold it while tightening the bottom bolt which holds the damper to the fork slider. But my tool was weak and bent under the torque needed (25 lb-ft). However I was able to get the job done using an air impact wrench on that bottom bolt, even without holding the damper from inside, gradually increasing the air pressure until it felt like it was at 25 lb-ft.

Last edited by heatmizr; 04-15-2016 at 04:13 PM.
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post #51 of 53 (permalink) Old 05-03-2016, 05:34 PM
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Important Note on Fork Re-Assembly

One point not mentioned in this thread is this:
When you are re-assembling the fork and installing the blue Fork Cap onto the damper rod
1- Make sure the grey adjuster plate is able to turn freely inside the Fork Cap.
2- Then make sure the four splines on the damper rod are properly seated into the grey preload adjuster/spinner that is threaded inside the blue fork cap itself.
To do this, as you lightly put the Fork Cap onto the damper rod, rotate it until you feel those splines line up with the notches in the adjuster plate and the fork cap will drop down a bit more onto those splines.


In my case, due to the manual's lack of proper detail on the new forks, during disassembly I had turned the preload adjuster all the way Out/Soft with too much force, and got the inner preload adjuster plate jammed up against the inside of the fork. When I got the forks back together, I couldn't move the preload adjuster nut. I had to take the caps back off and free up that inner adjuster plate on the threads and then re-assemble again.


If this isn't making sense, check out these pics showing the parts involved:
Inside the fork cap - note the grey colored adjuster on threads inside, with four notches
Redirect Notice


Rebound / top of Damper tube - note the four splines that seat in the notches in above pic
Redirect Notice


Hope this helps.
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post #52 of 53 (permalink) Old 02-02-2017, 08:28 PM
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2002+ part numbers?

Since the manual nor fiche really show the updated fork parts for 2002+, I am having a difficult time finding part numbers for those parts. I mucked up the preload black adjuster nut that sits on top of the damper end which pokes through the fork cap.

Anyone have a link for updated fiche, or a part number for any of those updated fork parts?

Also any idea if the 2002+ damper rod itself is updated as well?

Hope I am not the only one still using this post !!
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post #53 of 53 (permalink) Old 02-22-2017, 01:35 AM
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SP2 DIY Fork seal replacement

hi,,,
For a one time deal, if you don't trust your forks to a local shop, send them out to somewhere reputable. I'm lucky that I had a couple shops close by that I would trust to do the work if needed. If I didn't and I didn't want to do them myself, I'd rather drive a couple hours to a good shop.

Ask around a local riders, trackday, or racing forum. I'm sure somebody can reccomend a shop within driving distance. If it is far away, I'm sure you could make arrangements for them to be done while you wait. Just remember that this time of year, shops are busy.

You might also be able to find someone that is just a fellow rider with the correct tools and a thirst for alcoholic beverages.

PREVENTATIVE VEHICLE MAINTENANCE

Last edited by ashwin88; 02-27-2017 at 03:00 AM.
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