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post #21 of 53 (permalink) Old 09-04-2012, 03:55 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by RVTMAVERICK View Post
Hey Brett,

Sweet job and Great Details on "How to Do" a Fork Rebuild, very Nice Bro.!

Also, FWIW: I've got a Great tip to aid the "Bushing Install" which ofcourse will help make this go Much smoother & easier to do... as you said "it can be a pain to install"

That is to put the Bushings into your freezer for a min. of around 15 to 20 min., Longer is good, upon taking them out of the freezer, then QUICKLY Spread a fine coat of fork oil around the OD of the Bushing and the ID of the fork tube, then QUICKLY Install said Bushing.

Again, Great Write Up Brett!


Peace Jeff
Yeah, the first one I tried to install dry without even thinking about it (hey, it was like 2am).

I thought I was going to wake up the neighbors with all the banging I was doing. After lubing it up, it went right in.


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post #22 of 53 (permalink) Old 09-04-2012, 04:11 PM
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Originally Posted by b.miller123 View Post

I thought I was going to wake up the neighbors with all the banging I was doing. After lubing it up, it went right in.
PERVO...

Great write-up thanks


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post #23 of 53 (permalink) Old 09-04-2012, 04:30 PM Thread Starter
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PERVO...

Great write-up thanks
Haha, holy shit I didn't even see that. I almost spit iced tea all over my computer.


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post #24 of 53 (permalink) Old 09-04-2012, 11:56 PM
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The manual doesn't say anything about pulling the rod/needle. I just put them back to where they were before, which was showing about two or three threads on the rod after tightening the jam nut (I can remember exactly as I did this a couple weeks ago before a trackday).
The owners manual shows the default OEM setting of the rebound adjuster is one turn CCW out from full in.
With that standard OEM setting, the two punch marks should align.

So what I do is turn the rebound adjust CW until it stops, then lightly thread the fork cap assembly onto the adjust case portion with my finger tips until the fork cap lightly (keyword) bottoms out and no longer rotates.

Then I tighten the jam nut, securing the fork cap onto the damper rod.
Then rotate the rebound adjuster one turn CCW and it should align with the punch marks, or pretty close.

I also found that tappet wrenches (which are thinner than standard wrenches) work far better at accessing the the thin hexes of the fork cap lock nut than standard wrenches.
I bought a pair of Snap-On tappet wrenches in 12x14mm (LTAM1214) and 17x19mm (LTAM1719), which work very well.

Snap-On does not give those wrenches away, so I suggest looking for less expensive alternatives.
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post #25 of 53 (permalink) Old 09-05-2012, 02:25 AM
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Forks

Nice write-up B. Miller.

Did you order all your seals/bushings from the dealership or on-line?
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post #26 of 53 (permalink) Old 09-06-2012, 12:38 AM Thread Starter
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Nice write-up B. Miller.

Did you order all your seals/bushings from the dealership or on-line?
I bought them at the dealer. In other words, I got raped.


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post #27 of 53 (permalink) Old 09-06-2012, 11:47 AM
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I bought them at the dealer. In other words, I got raped.

Hey Buddy,

IF I may ask, WHY in the World did You buy them from a dealership IF You knew or once you saw<> you were going to get Hosed?

I'm just wondering is all, I know there is some cool dealerships out there but NOT Many. I have also dealt with one ONCE, when I was treated
like a dirtbag or I was being a Bother just because I was even there looking to buy parts. I smiled (trying not to Blow UP) and walked out NEVER
to return to that "Parts counter" again!

The Place I deal with whenever I need or want OE parts, they are a Inter-net business that just also happens to be a Dealership<>as well. = it's a Great Place to buy OEM parts!
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post #28 of 53 (permalink) Old 09-06-2012, 11:52 AM
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Thanks for the write-up Brett, one of the last maintenance tasks I'm yet to attempt.
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post #29 of 53 (permalink) Old 09-06-2012, 06:25 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RVTMAVERICK View Post
Hey Buddy,

IF I may ask, WHY in the World did You buy them from a dealership IF You knew or once you saw<> you were going to get Hosed?

I'm just wondering is all, I know there is some cool dealerships out there but NOT Many. I have also dealt with one ONCE, when I was treated
like a dirtbag or I was being a Bother just because I was even there looking to buy parts. I smiled (trying not to Blow UP) and walked out NEVER
to return to that "Parts counter" again!

The Place I deal with whenever I need or want OE parts, they are a Inter-net business that just also happens to be a Dealership<>as well. = it's a Great Place to buy OEM parts!
When you need parts for a trackday, you NEED parts for a trackday. All told for all the O-rings, seals, and bushings it was something close to $100. I just ordered pretty much every single thing in there that I might need, as I didn't have time to order parts a second time once the forks were apart. All in all, just poor planning on my part with trying to get a bike together in less than a week when it hadn't been down the road in over six months and was in pieces.


Depending on the price of the item and if it makes sense to pay a better price, then add shipping for online vs. a more expensive price, no shipping, but add sales tax for local. I like to shop online, but I usually try to buy as much as possible at once if I can wait on the items, as most online places charge a flat shipping fee as long as you aren't ordering anything over-sized. For instance, I have a second set of calipers for the RC that need rebuilding, but I am waiting to see what parts I need for my other bike (ninja 250) that I am rebuilding. That way I can buy it all at once and only pay for shipping once.

Yeah, it is odd sometimes how different dealers are. This was actually a decent place. I only bought them there as I knew they could have them in less than a week. They are always good about getting parts in on time. The online OEM parts dealers I've seen are usually just regular dealers that drop their prices in order to drum up more business from online sales. It seems like most of them do the same thing your local dealer does, order the parts from Honda, get them from the warehouse, and ship them out to you. That is why the online places will take longer to get there if it is an item they don't have in stock. It gets shipped twice. The odd thing about local dealers is that their pricing seems to be all over the map. Some items are right at msrp, some lower, some higher. I still haven't seen a local dealer with a better deal than online though.

I have had several bad experiences with dealers over the years. The local Honda dealer when I first moved to Texas tried to sell me tires and brake pads to pass a safety inspection, and wouldn't do it without riding the bike. It was all just a bunch of bullshit. The tires lasted thousands more miles along with the brake pads. And since then, there hasn't been another man's ass on the seat of my bike, and nobody has turned a wrench on it beside me (since I bought it with 3100 miles anyways.) I did have one dealer put new tires on once, I brought them the wheels though. They still managed to put some small marks on them. Enough to make me vow to never let anyone even put tires on my bike.


I also had an issue the last time I tried to buy a new bike (when I bought the RC). I was shopping for an R1 and went into a dealer with $10k in cash in my pocket ready to spend. It took about 20 minutes to finally get someone's attention on the sales floor, and that was the cute chick in the apparel section (maybe she saw the bulge in my pants?). I even made direct eye contact with the sales guy, to the point of staring at him with a "wtf?" look on my face. Nothing. Haven't been back their since. About the same thing happened at another dealer, but after I got their attention, the sales guys heard the words "I have cash" and seemed put off by it and pawned me off on some kid in sales that looked like he just got his driver's license. Didn't buy shit their either. The funny part is that the first dealership is now struggling and has had to shut down their second store in the area, and the first dealership has gone out of business.


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post #30 of 53 (permalink) Old 09-06-2012, 07:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by b.miller123 View Post
I bought them at the dealer. In other words, I got raped.
Brett, there wasn't too much sand in the vaselene...
I just ran your list in Hammond Indiana, Honda, Yamaha, Kawasaki, Suzuki, Sea-Doo, Can-Am, Polaris, Ski, Tucker Rocky, Parts, ATV, Motorcycle, UTV, Accessories, Apparel,

reverse look-up and $68.96 was their price add 6.5 % tax $75.46 is what you are looking at oh wait let's not forget shipping if you need it on time for trackday say $10.00 .

So your local dealer is a good one

You are right pricing is whacked from place to place.

I ALWAYS ask the counter guy to cut me a deal (insert reason here) and 90% of the time they will 10 % usually! Point being if you told him you were a broke track junkie with skinny dogs your cost may have been 5 bucks over servicehonda.


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post #31 of 53 (permalink) Old 09-06-2012, 09:27 PM Thread Starter
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Brett, there wasn't too much sand in the vaselene...
I just ran your list in Hammond Indiana, Honda, Yamaha, Kawasaki, Suzuki, Sea-Doo, Can-Am, Polaris, Ski, Tucker Rocky, Parts, ATV, Motorcycle, UTV, Accessories, Apparel,

reverse look-up and $68.96 was their price add 6.5 % tax $75.46 is what you are looking at oh wait let's not forget shipping if you need it on time for trackday say $10.00 .

So your local dealer is a good one

You are right pricing is whacked from place to place.

I ALWAYS ask the counter guy to cut me a deal (insert reason here) and 90% of the time they will 10 % usually! Point being if you told him you were a broke track junkie with skinny dogs your cost may have been 5 bucks over servicehonda.
Haha, next time I'll tell them all I have left to eat is ramen and I really want to step it up to some taco bell.


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post #32 of 53 (permalink) Old 05-13-2013, 09:45 PM
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I know it's an older thread, but thanks for posting this up. I am in the Houston area and finding a reputable shop to do the job seems nearly impossible. A couple quick questions if you still get notifications from this; 1) is it the norm to reuse the old dust seals, 2) do you know the allen size for the bottom bolt and 3) do you remember how much fork oil you ended up using? Thanks in advance.

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post #33 of 53 (permalink) Old 05-13-2013, 10:48 PM Thread Starter
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The dust seals and the fork seals will come in the same package if you buy the OEM ones from Honda. If you are going through the trouble of doing it, you might as well replace them all. If you don't have the new ones and are in a hurry to get it done, and the current ones are okay I guess it wouldn't be a problem. The outer seal is just there to wipe away stuff before it touches the actual seal, but be aware that not replacing the dust seal might mean your fork seals are getting more dirt in them and they might not last as long.

I don't remember off the top of my head how big it was. Something like 8mm? It's a big one. If you pull the axle out, you can measure it or try what you have to see if it fits. Depending on the tools you have, you might be able to get away with not buying a long hex socket like I did. The body of the socket part was pretty skinny on mine.

I believe I used just over two bottles. Each fork used about 500ml, which is usually the size of one bottle. Better to have more left over than need to go to the store in the middle of a job.


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post #34 of 53 (permalink) Old 05-13-2013, 11:56 PM
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great write up!
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post #35 of 53 (permalink) Old 05-14-2013, 01:27 AM
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Thanks man, I wasn't sure if the 51490-MCF-000 was both or not. I ordered all the parts from your photo using the site wingnutt posted. All together it was $80 with shipping. My local shop was $50 a piece for the seals alone. Thanks guys for saving me time and money. Besides these tools, Fork Service Tool Kit
all I need is a damper rod tool like the one you used from motion pro, correct? Thanks again.

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Installed:EFI Live w/ DSP5 by Kory Willis, 60,80,100,120,kill, MBRP SS 5" TB, Alligator PCV reroute w/ billet plugs, ProFab EGR delete, ProFab DP, modded up-pipe, alligator Trans lines, demoulded and debadged, color matched handles.
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post #36 of 53 (permalink) Old 05-14-2013, 03:05 AM
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Sorry one more question, so I know I will need the tools you needed in the first post, but is everything in the tool kit from my previous post necessary? The rod at the bottom is supposed to help when priming the forks. Should I just buy the compressor tool and the oil level gauge from traxxion and the damper tool from motion pro instead? Thanks.

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Installed:EFI Live w/ DSP5 by Kory Willis, 60,80,100,120,kill, MBRP SS 5" TB, Alligator PCV reroute w/ billet plugs, ProFab EGR delete, ProFab DP, modded up-pipe, alligator Trans lines, demoulded and debadged, color matched handles.
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post #37 of 53 (permalink) Old 05-16-2013, 02:24 AM
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Originally Posted by b.miller123 View Post
The dust seals and the fork seals will come in the same package if you buy the OEM ones from Honda. If you are going through the trouble of doing it, you might as well replace them all. If you don't have the new ones and are in a hurry to get it done, and the current ones are okay I guess it wouldn't be a problem. The outer seal is just there to wipe away stuff before it touches the actual seal, but be aware that not replacing the dust seal might mean your fork seals are getting more dirt in them and they might not last as long.

I don't remember off the top of my head how big it was. Something like 8mm? It's a big one. If you pull the axle out, you can measure it or try what you have to see if it fits. Depending on the tools you have, you might be able to get away with not buying a long hex socket like I did. The body of the socket part was pretty skinny on mine.

I believe I used just over two bottles. Each fork used about 500ml, which is usually the size of one bottle. Better to have more left over than need to go to the store in the middle of a job.
It's a 10mm socket head (allen) on the bottom bolt.
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post #38 of 53 (permalink) Old 05-16-2013, 02:40 AM
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Thanks man, I wasn't sure if the 51490-MCF-000 was both or not. I ordered all the parts from your photo using the site wingnutt posted. All together it was $80 with shipping. My local shop was $50 a piece for the seals alone. Thanks guys for saving me time and money. Besides these tools, Fork Service Tool Kit
all I need is a damper rod tool like the one you used from motion pro, correct? Thanks again.
From first hand experience, that fork oil level syringe is a pain in the ass to use.
On mine, the seal in the syringe would swell and I needed two hands just to pull, leaving the level rod and hose free to fall out and drip oil all over the place. Grrr..

I finally bit the bullet and bought the Race Tech oil level tool (pn TFOL 02).
Made of CNC aluminum. It ain't cheap, but it works REALLY good. To set the oil level, twist the knob at the base, and set the graduated tip to the desired level, then tighten knob. A nice piece of work there.

Also, if you are going to service your (or others) forks on a routine basis, the Race Tech fork spring compressor (TFSC 01) is a must have.

And the Race Tech cartridge holder tool (pn TFCH 01) for most Showa and KYB 20mm cartridges is nice to hold the cartridge when loosening or tightening the bottom fork bolt.

Tools
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post #39 of 53 (permalink) Old 05-16-2013, 04:05 PM Thread Starter
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The gold damper rod primer tool at the bottom of the picture isn't 100% necessary, as you can reach the damper rod, but it would make it a lot easier on your fingers. Doing like you said (buying just the spring tool, syringe and damper cartridge tool from motion pro) would be okay, but I don't know how much money it would actually save you. Honestly, I don't know if it will even fit our bikes? I'm not sure what the thread pitch is on the damper rod, so it may be useless.

That kit is a good compromise if you aren't going to be doing it often. You'll still need something to actually compress the spring like a ratchet strap (you won't be able to do it by hand with that tool). The idea for my ghetto spring compressor actually came from someone using that compressor and a ratchet strap. The thing I don't like about that kit is the price. It is really close to the price of a racetech spring compressor.

If this is something you'll be doing on your own very often (like more than once a year) I suggest biting the bullet and getting the racetech spring compressor. You'll also have a lot of new friends in your riding circle once they know you have it.

Basically if you are doing it once by yourself:

Required:
Buy the cartridge holder tool
Make or buy a spring compressor like the Traxxion one. I think the Traxxion one is still a good buy by itself, and I reccomend buying it, and would have done so myself if time allotted.

Optional:
Syringe: You can use a small ruler and a length of tubing to get out the excess oil. Just be sure that if you dump it out and refill, that you bleed the cartridge again before measuring. Not the easiest way to do it, but the $30 syringes are kind of a pain anyways.
Damper rod holder: you can reach this by hand, and you can always put the rebound adjuster back on temporarily to get a better grip on it.


If you are going to be doing this very often:

Racetech spring compressor.
Racetech oil level syringe.
Motion pro cartridge holder
Damper rod holder


And of course, for either way you'll need a bunch of other tools like the list in the first post.


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post #40 of 53 (permalink) Old 05-23-2013, 05:51 AM
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looks like I will have to do this,so thanks again for the write up
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