I finally caught up on this thread and your dyno results over the weekend.
Thank you for all of the detailed documentation of your racebike builds. I've had the opportunity to talk with a good friend about his builds, so I've seen and discussed some of it and asked him lots of stupid questions, to which he has patiently provided answers.
This is a really fine collection of knowledge. Hard to find. Thanks again.
I think I'll borrow your mounting bracket idea for the regulator/rectifier. You haven't had one overheat and quit from engine heat conducting to it?
I'm happy with the rest of the electronics packaged under the seat, with a Speedcell battery, but have been scratching my head about the reg/rec.
I'm surprised you're not going with with a Motec ECU. Wiring it in would be a PITA for most of us but you've got the skills. You must have thought about it?
My Mama always said "Its what's inside that counts"...
The pistons came in the mail yesterday!
-Pankl Forged Ti H-beam rods
-Custom CP pistons, Calico coated skirts, DLC coated wrist pins, gas ports, under head CNC Milling, +1mm valve cutouts, +1mm bore, 12.7:1 with OEM valves or 13.5:1 with HRC Ti Valves. Custom 1mm Nitrated rings.
These are for my project engine sitting in the Trailer. Im going to keep running my last built engine for now.
I think I'll borrow your mounting bracket idea for the regulator/rectifier. You haven't had one overheat and quit from engine heat conducting to it?
I'm happy with the rest of the electronics packaged under the seat, with a Speedcell battery, but have been scratching my head about the reg/rec.
I used both aluminium and composite brackets for the rectifier/regulator. Never had a problem with heat but I would recommend composite to reduce conducting engine heat.
I'm surprised you're not going with with a Motec ECU. Wiring it in would be a PITA for most of us but you've got the skills. You must have thought about it?
Thought about it, but I didnt think long. The price of the unit is one thing, the cost of all the dyno time to tune it right is another. I just didn't want to spend the $ in dyno time tuning it. If I had access to a dyno then I would thought longer.
The HRC ECU base map will be very close to what I need, its very easy to adjust the fuelling for 0-7.5% and 70-100% throttle with the ECU interpolating the midrange based upon the bottom and top end adjustments. The timing will be very close to ideal and I have an adjustable rev limiter. I will keep the PC3USB for fine tuning and the Quick Shifter function. That and the price was reasonable when I stumbled on to the unit. I would have been happy just to keep the Carmo ECU otherwise.
These threads are awesome Damon and the pictures and diagrams have been equal parts helpful and inspirational. I'm busy relocating the battery and some electronics and have referred to a couple of your threads several times to check things out and make sure I haven't taken a wrong turn.
I do have question for you, after relocating the battery up front where will you end up mounting your PC3, and where do you run the ground wire to? (Now that the negative terminal isn't as accessible.)
Last edited by watskooo; 02-02-2010 at 06:59 PM.
Reason: fixed question
If close the battery ground is good but, not at the expense of a long lead. A long ground lead adds resistance and can pick up noise. You would be better to make a good ground contact to the engine.
I just grounded the PC3 to the subframe but I also made sure the mating faces of the subframe mounting points to the frame where bare of paint and clean. I also made sure the engine has a good electrical connection to the frame.
My PC3 is just to the rear of the seat on the aluminum plate across the back of the cut down SP2 subframe. The subframe is a big low impedance wire so I just grounded the PC3 to one of the bolts for the aluminum plate.
i see you have a akra full does your hangers work on OEM too?
I have a customer who bought hangers from me and he has a akra and says they don't like up as the sides are uneven and yet i have sold like 30 pairs of them b4 with no issue
I am unsure if the akras need their own hangers then for their full
The full system comes with 5mm spacers that push the hangers outward. I dont know if the Akra slip-ons required them or not. Im using the Sato Ti hangers and have used them for both the Arka fulls and Sato slip-ons.
Got my bike back from Mark McDade who custom built a full system for me. The system was built using 20AWG Stainless.
Using the Akrapovic 45mm SP2 flanges and collars the system starts out 1.75".
The first expansion tapers up to 2" after the fist bend as it travels down. The pipe expands again to 2.25" along the oil pan back to the 2-1 collector.
The 2-1 collector is 2.25" in and stays 2.25" on the outlet for several inches. Mark says he has seen big mid range gains by not expanding the collector outlet too fast.
After the 2-1 collector the system expandes again to 2.5" that feeds the custom AreaP Oval Carbon silencer with billet CNC end caps. 18" long 2.5" in and 2.5" out. I dont think I will be riding at Laguna with this system!
Same with the rear cylinder, Akrapovic SP2 flange and collar 45mm outlet.
Again the rear primary pipe expands to 2" on the way down then 2.25 as it snakes in to the U before the 2-1 collector. Mark did his best to utilized as much room as possible to add some length to the rear pipe. Notice the nicely made sectioned U bend!
I hope to have it off to the dyno next week. Mark has a lot of experience building systems and knows what works. I also had the input from Kerry at AreaP who worked with American Honda developing systems for the RC51. Its bigger then the full Akrapovic but still much smaller then the full HRC systems. We belive this will work very well with my engine combos.
If your thinking about a system like this or if you have a moderately modified engine then contact me. I would be willing to send my system to Mark to make up some tooling and build up a few more of these if the interest is there. How much you ask? Would you believe all for about $1K!!!
Awesome stuff there Damon.
I love the look of that raw stainless. Nothing polished.
And at 1K, that's incredibly reasonable.
Can't wait to see the dyno results.
Just curious as to why you went SS instead of Ti? Im sure it cut the cost down. But are there any other benifits to using Ti over SS other than weight?
Outstanding work again. +1 on the Dyno results especially interested as I'm considering fitting a modified Akro single exit exhaust to mine (though obviously with smaller headers).
How do you get so much done on this thing while holding down a full-time job?
No longer an Akra guy? Nice work with the exhaust. Looks like quality work by someone who knew what they were doing. We could use a little more of that around here.
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Originally Posted by mrgrn
why don'y you do yourself a favor and put me on ignore
Nice work with the exhaust. Looks like quality work by someone who knew what they were doing. We could use a little more of that around here.
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