Engine Rebuild 101 - Page 11 - Speedzilla Motorcycle Message Forums
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post #201 of 211 (permalink) Old 05-30-2012, 02:11 PM
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Originally Posted by whitw wings View Post
Those damn front mounts have kept the temp below 170 over 20 tuning runs for fuel and timing (pc3r model) and 7 power pulls.

I will throw a pc3usb on between next race and the July race for those interested in the maps were creating for the ladybird exhaust. I wanted to make 2 quality maps for you all to use for these set ups. I would recommend motor work and not just basic bolt on's. I was lucky to find a motor that was built for reliability race SEASON after season on pump 93 octane.

I won't post numbers until it's all smoothed out but man, it's pretty close now!

HRC wiring harness
Yoyodyne slipper clutch
Moriwaki airbox
Wiseco pistons
Cases ported to HRC specs
Transmission undercut by Fast by Gast (up / down)
Falicon Supercrank Cylinders coated by Millennium Technologies
Cylinder heads ported by Alex Fornelli
Kurt I am sure Fred and Anthony can get it to temp if you hang some side mounts on for the run, also pc3 usb overnight air from dan is an option.(and a quickshifter)

Quoted fact from LDH...Anything below 180 is not normal operating temp, anything below 168 is still in the warm-up cycle with enriched A/F.

Anything over 200 degrees also goes richer which increases the idle, but also burns cooler in the cylinder.

I am sure they know this, but if you want to borrow my ( sbk drews ) samco kit and hang some rads hit me-up !


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post #202 of 211 (permalink) Old 05-31-2012, 07:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wingnutt View Post
Kurt I am sure Fred and Anthony can get it to temp if you hang some side mounts on for the run, also pc3 usb overnight air from dan is an option.(and a quickshifter)

Quoted fact from LDH...Anything below 180 is not normal operating temp, anything below 168 is still in the warm-up cycle with enriched A/F.

Anything over 200 degrees also goes richer which increases the idle, but also burns cooler in the cylinder.

I am sure they know this, but if you want to borrow my ( sbk drews ) samco kit and hang some rads hit me-up !
Update
So even though I relayed the info LDH and then later echoed by Wingnut in the post above to the boys at Ducati, I was poo-pooed in my suggestions to get the temp up. On the Dyno runs prior to the advice, we saw pulls as high as 134-138 but just crazy things happening on the way there.

I applied enough heat reflective tape on the top radiator to leave just a half inch of cooling space which kept the engine temp in the 185-205 range. This consistency gave us a MUCH smoother map and power at 131 on pump fuel.


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post #203 of 211 (permalink) Old 05-31-2012, 07:46 PM
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Update
So even though I relayed the info LDH and then later echoed by Wingnut in the post above to the boys at Ducati, I was poo-pooed in my suggestions to get the temp up. On the Dyno runs prior to the advice, we saw pulls as high as 134-138 but just crazy things happening on the way there.

I applied enough heat reflective tape on the top radiator to leave just a half inch of cooling space which kept the engine temp in the 185-205 range. This consistency gave us a MUCH smoother map and power at 131 on pump fuel.
What is your C/R and timing curve ...get some u-40 let's see a buck fourty five while it's still strapped down !!!

Kurt make sure you have the rev limiter jumpered out !!!


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Last edited by wingnutt; 05-31-2012 at 08:05 PM.
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post #204 of 211 (permalink) Old 05-31-2012, 08:13 PM
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What is your C/R and timing curve ...get some u-40 let's see a buck fourty five while it's still strapped down !!!

Kurt make sure you have the rev limiter jumpered out !!!
I did not have it removed for this tune as it was in my other harness. I relized it afterwards when revewing the graphs against another with similar mods and his increase after 10k.


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post #205 of 211 (permalink) Old 07-07-2013, 11:11 PM
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can anyone shed some light on the mod discussed about half way down?
Engine Rebuild 101

I am wondering who has ported the area for better flow and if there are some closer pictures so that I can get a better idea on how to go about it?


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post #206 of 211 (permalink) Old 07-08-2013, 09:57 AM
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can anyone shed some light on the mod discussed about half way down?
Engine Rebuild 101

I am wondering who has ported the area for better flow and if there are some closer pictures so that I can get a better idea on how to go about it?
Which post # are you talking about? Go to that post and click on the number in the upper right corner (of that post). This will take you to a new page. Copy the address and them paste it in your reply.

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post #207 of 211 (permalink) Old 07-08-2013, 11:37 PM
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Which post # are you talking about? Go to that post and click on the number in the upper right corner (of that post). This will take you to a new page. Copy the address and them paste it in your reply.

Hey Waldo, I guessing here but it MUST be "#25 HRC Case Mod." Speedster is asking about, right Speedster?

I'm not sure how much more you could ask for, there IS Good pictures here with what He did... Use a Dremel tool have at it, same type of work as porting heads.
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post #208 of 211 (permalink) Old 07-09-2013, 12:06 AM
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RVT- yes that is correct


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post #209 of 211 (permalink) Old 10-10-2013, 09:53 PM
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Just a lil clean-up

You're just basically cleaning up casting flash so there is less oil clinging to those areas and flows back to the sump area more efficiently....
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post #210 of 211 (permalink) Old 10-13-2013, 07:19 AM
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That was my understanding after speaking with the owner... I think I still have these cases in the big garage...


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post #211 of 211 (permalink) Old 10-21-2014, 10:25 PM
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[QUOTE=9hondas;440845]

I'm looking for opinions here about how to best proceed on the mechanical side of this. The bike is otherwise in showroom condition. I know the motor will have to come out, I guess the only question is what goes back in, this one with a new crankcase set or a used motor off ebay.

I'd like to put new cases on this motor since its such low miles, but aside from the obvious cost of cases and gaskets, what other parts will I need?

Would it be possible to swap the guts between cases without pulling the flywheel and alternator rotors? Would I need new rings etc on the pistons too?



So, this damge happened to me too, but I did it while on track, wondering about how to fix...*Most cost effectively... If i bought a used set of cases, should i buy the crank from that motor too�

Thanks
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