Ohlins ride height question

[Sasquatch]

I'm curious as to how much ride height fellow Ohlins users have dialed in out back. I'm running the stock link and have the forks set at the top line in the tripple clamp (maybe 5mm showing-that's a guess off the top of my head). I don't think there are but 2 threads showing on the bottom of the bottom shock eye.

Thanks for the input, it is appreciated.

[Rigor]

If you're running an Ohlins shock and a stock link, you should have 7 lines (threads) showing on the shock height linkage.

Each line designates 1mm of shock length.

The Ohlins shock is 324mm long, (mid-set) and the stock rear shock for the RC51 is 326mm.

Guys with a Moriwaki link or a Kyle link run 2 lines showing as the link adds 5mm of shock length on its own, equaling the 7mm of added length total.

Granted, 5mm of added length equals 18mm of total ride height, and 17-22 is the sweet spot, as we all know....... Fork drop (5mm is good) and rear tire size all determine the rest......... each 1mm equals 3.6mm of ride height for the rear.

*Ohlins shock at 2 lines showing equals stock length.

*Ohlins shock at 2 lines showing and Mori or Kyle link equals 5mm of added length or 18mm of ride height.

*Ohlins shock at 7mm showing (7 lines) with stock link equals 5mm of added length or 18mm of ride height.

BASICALLY..... add 5 more lines showing for a total of 7mm total lines showing....

[Sasquatch]

Excellent, thanks for the info! I'll pull the shock and make some adjustments this week. Adding 5mm of shock length should make a huge difference in how quickly I can get 'er turned in.

[Rigor]

Originally Posted by Sasquatch

Excellent, thanks for the info! I'll pull the shock and make some adjustments this week. Adding 5mm of shock length should make a huge difference in how quickly I can get 'er turned in.

True dat...........

[beaugator]

Just remember that bumpy exits will cause some more head shake at those settings. Not all that bad but, at the wrong place, can cause a big problem without a steering damper!

[Sasquatch]

It's done. There are 7 threads showing and the bike seems to be a bit more nimble. I didn't get a chance to rip up a 'real' road yet, but I think it's going to be much better. Now I've got the short side stand issue. Time to check out the classifieds.

Thanks for the help, it is appreciated.

[XFBO]

Anyone know if ride height is added when swapping over to a SP2 swingarm?

I have an Ohlins triple clicker and Mori link and I dont recall the rear end being this jacked up, and to boot, my kickstand is practically useless right now.

[Trace]

Originally Posted by XFBO

....my kickstand is practically useless right now.

1. Take kickstand totally apart.
2. Make a nice vertical scratch in the middle area of kickstand.
3. Cut kickstand in the middle (meaning "in two", of course).
4. Insert a piece of 1/2 inch diameter steel rod, about 3.5-4 inches long, into each piece of the kickstand, with about 1 inch of the rod showing. (That's amount of added length that I needed for my 5mm of additional shock length using a Penske. Your requirements will prpbably vary!) I used a piece of good tool steel, not a piece of soft, crappy all-thread. It's up to you.
5. Have someone MIG it all back together, using that vertical scratch to align the two pieces. Otherwise, the "foot" might be facing the wrong direction. Doh!!
6. The MIG guy will have to add plenty of filler to fill the gap between the two orginal pieces so that it looks decent. Grinding and detail filing will be in order, I'm sure.
7. Paint!

[wibbly]

i cannot even consider posting my setup at this point. but consider it wild.


given the stock rc geometry, taller is better. just go with that.

[Waldo]

Originally Posted by Rigor

If you're running an Ohlins shock and a stock link, you should have 7 lines (threads) showing on the shock height linkage.

Each line designates 1mm of shock length.

The Ohlins shock is 324mm long, (mid-set) and the stock rear shock for the RC51 is 326mm.

Guys with a Moriwaki link or a Kyle link run 2 lines showing as the link adds 5mm of shock length on its own, equaling the 7mm of added length total.

Granted, 5mm of added length equals 18mm of total ride height, and 17-22 is the sweet spot, as we all know....... Fork drop (5mm is good) and rear tire size all determine the rest......... each 1mm equals 3.6mm of ride height for the rear.

*Ohlins shock at 2 lines showing equals stock length.

*Ohlins shock at 2 lines showing and Mori or Kyle link equals 5mm of added length or 18mm of ride height.

*Ohlins shock at 7mm showing (7 lines) with stock link equals 5mm of added length or 18mm of ride height.

BASICALLY..... add 5 more lines showing for a total of 7mm total lines showing....

I know this is an old thread but it still has some greatinfo. I am trying to straighten my Geometry out. I am guessing all thesemeasurements were with a SP1 swingarm. Does anyone know what the numbers wouldbe for a SP2 swingarm? I have a 00 Honda RC51 with 03 Honda RC51 swingarm, Kylelink and Ohlins shock in the rear. Stock forks with RT compression, rebound andsprings.



After reading this again, I am a little confused. Myconfusion come where do you do the measuring at? Do I measure at the end of theswingarm with the stock shock/linkage and then again with the Ohlins/Kyle link?

[3stripes]

To confuse anyone further since I sure am. Mike Wheeler stated that with the Mori/DK link, you have to change your rear spring into something heavier because of the link. WHy, I currently do not understand. I am still searching for a rear heavier spring for my Ohlins. How much more weight in the new spring to work correctly for me? I don't know still .

[LDH]

The primary function of the link is to alter the rising rate of the swingarm making it less progressive. The added ride height is just a by-product NOT the intended result.

With the rising rate of the swingarm more linear you will need a stiffer spring to achieve the same sag numbers and compensate for the range of motion that used to be progressive because the linkage is preventing the swingarm from getting firmer & firmer as the spring compresses.

[RVTMAVERICK]

Originally Posted by 3stripes

To confuse anyone further since I sure am. Mike Wheeler stated that with the Mori/DK link, you have to change your rear spring into something heavier because of the link. WHy, I currently do not understand. I am still searching for a rear heavier spring for my Ohlins. How much more weight in the new spring to work correctly for me? I don't know still .

Plus 1 with what LDH said answering your (Ken is it?) question, You get it now, as to why the same spring which once worked is now too soft?

And to answer your question about "Which Spring" you would now need... I can tell you this, by using any 1 of these links> Mori\Kyle\or the V. link.... You automatically go "1" size heavier spring!

I Hope this helps,

Peace Jeff

[3stripes]

VERY COOL.

ONE SIZE heavier, CHECKED!!

thanks man!!

[RVTMAVERICK]

You're Welcome 3stripes

Originally Posted by Waldo

I know this is an old thread but it still has some greatinfo. I am trying to straighten my Geometry out. I am guessing all thesemeasurements were with a SP1 swingarm. Does anyone know what the numbers wouldbe for a SP2 swingarm? I have a 00 Honda RC51 with 03 Honda RC51 swingarm, Kylelink and Ohlins shock in the rear. Stock forks with RT compression, rebound andsprings.



After reading this again, I am a little confused. Myconfusion come where do you do the measuring at? Do I measure at the end of theswingarm with the stock shock/linkage and then again with the Ohlins/Kyle link?

Hey Waldo,

I don't know why you're guessing we're talking about an SP1 veres an SP2 or vicea\versa... As I see no mention of either but what I can tell you is Rigor had an 2003 RC51

Waldo, As for where you measure from is, "I Always measure from my Axel and go straight UP" to some point on My tail section... Record numers and always use the same points after that...

I Hope this Helps,

Peace Jeff

PS> How those rims still working out for you?