for safety wiring what do you use i have tons of regular drills (5 actually) and a vise but am thinking about a drillpress is it worth the dough or am i gonna buy something that i dont need
It depends on what you're drilling, you'll need both.
The hand drill workd nice for drilling things that you don't want to remove from the bike, like brake banjo-bolts. Those can be drilled on the bike, without having to rebleed brakes.
A hand drill also ups your chances of breaking a drill bit, though....
www.Eastwood.com also sells jigs that hold SAE, Metric bolts and also one that holds nuts, to drill them. All three units work OK, but not terrific.
Nuts/bolt heads are easier placed in a drill press vice, and drilled with a drill press.
If all your going to drill is the bolts for the bike then save the money and get a bench vise and cobalt drill bits. Use # 45 for the safety wire holes. One bit per hole is a good rule of thumb when drilling stainless hardware.
I've always used a hand drill on all of my race bikes. I mark the bolt to be drilled while on the bike, and torqued, then remove it if it's inaccessable while installed, clamp it in a vice between two pieces of wood, then use a spring loaded center punch. Drill perpindicular to the bolt (1/16" drill bit) until it starts to dig in a bit, then slowly angle it while still drilling to make your final drive. Slow waaaaay down on the force just before the bit comes out the other side or it will snap off. Yes, you will go through alot of drill bits, but their cheap. Use plenty of cutting oil. The money is better spent on something other than a drill press. 80% of the bolts can be done while still on the bike anyways.
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If all your going to drill is the bolts for the bike then save the money and get a bench vise and cobalt drill bits. Use # 45 for the safety wire holes. One bit per hole is a good rule of thumb when drilling stainless hardware.
I would think that by limiting the MRR and flooding with coolant you could get much more than one hole per bit.
Thats to go all the way through and to make sure it doesn't break off in the hole. It's when the bit gets dull that you use too much pressure trying to finish the hole that breaks the bit off..... along with break through torque. As was stated in an earlier post... go easy when you're almost through the other side of the bolt. Be sure to pull the bit out often to clear the flutes. That will help it go through better as well. Cobalt bits don't need to be lubed for this application. They won't start to cut until they get some heat in them. You regulate the heat by pulling it out to clear it and wait a few seconds before you continue. Trust me on this one.... I've drilled more holes in my life than any sane person should ever have to..... somewhere over 250K in 33 years!
Thats to go all the way through and to make sure it doesn't break off in the hole. It's when the bit gets dull that you use too much pressure trying to finish the hole that breaks the bit off..... along with break through torque. As was stated in an earlier post... go easy when you're almost through the other side of the bolt. Be sure to pull the bit out often to clear the flutes. That will help it go through better as well. Cobalt bits don't need to be lubed for this application. They won't start to cut until they get some heat in them. You regulate the heat by pulling it out to clear it and wait a few seconds before you continue. Trust me on this one.... I've drilled more holes in my life than any sane person should ever have to..... somewhere over 250K in 33 years!
I've done just about every bolt on my racebikes and friends bikes while they were still on the bike. A drill press would be nice but it's not really needed.
drillpress or reg drill
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