Cool stuff man, I have been interested in the quick disconnect fuel line mod for some time, its great to see it completed with such attention to detail.
I noticed the line end connections are safety-wired in place. Obviously space is a limiting factor here but have you considered any other alternatives like some kind of hose clamp? And I'm assuming its not possible to reuse the OEM fuel lines and fittings when you go with the QD fittings, right?
I only ask cause one time I made the mistake of trying to safety-wire a rubber cap in place on the end of my thermostat housing that I needed to block off. After testing riding it for a few miles I felt coolant on my leg so I knew something went awry, took the airbox off and found the safety wire broken and the cap off the end of the thermostat. I was close to home so it wasn't a huge problem, but if it was a fuel line that it happened to it would have been a much greater problem.
I have been working on a metal mesh filter guard for my airbox as well. Heres the mocked up version of it I put together, the final version will be done with aluminum honeycomb mesh and will be riveted directly to the box with aircraft grade structural rivets thanks to JetFxr.
I had bought a sheet of UNI green filter foam but the Moriwaki guru (Roger Ditchfield) was nice enough to send me a sheet of super high flow moriwaki filter material that will be set over the screen/guard when the box is installed. He said this would help to maximize the power gains of the airbox to minimize any airflow restriction. So apparently mori made this material just for this purpose.
PS. FWIW. I love the gold foil touch on the airbox bottom, but I think the gold coated intake snorkle may look a little more fitting on a bike like ericzeno's w/the gold wheels etc.
I noticed the line end connections are safety-wired in place. Obviously space is a limiting factor here but have you considered any other alternatives like some kind of hose clamp? And I'm assuming its not possible to reuse the OEM fuel lines and fittings when you go with the QD fittings, right?
For anything under pressure, I would never use only safety wire to secure a connection. Note that the feed line is done in proper "AN Fitting" fashion. For the return line I used QD's with push on hose barbs. These are meant to retain "AN" hose without clamps (note this will not work with OE or generic rubber hoses). I had some generic "band clamps" from the auto parts store that were the right size, but they looked like hell. The safety wire is wrapped 4 times to give it some area to work on, but really it is there just to make me feel better.
The vent and overflow lines only have to stay in position, and they dont have to contain flow or pressure, so yes the OE clamps would work here, but I was in a safety wiring kind of mood...
I will give it a shake down ride and then open her up again just to make sure all is OK before I take it too far.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RC51Stunna
I had bought a sheet of UNI green filter foam but the Moriwaki guru (Roger Ditchfield) was nice enough to send me a sheet of super high flow moriwaki filter material that will be set over the screen/guard when the box is installed. He said this would help to maximize the power gains of the airbox to minimize any airflow restriction. So apparently mori made this material just for this purpose.
I would love to have some of that stuff!
Quote:
Originally Posted by RC51Stunna
PS. FWIW. I love the gold foil touch on the airbox bottom, but I think the gold coated intake snorkle may look a little more fitting on a bike like ericzeno's w/the gold wheels etc.
You're not wrong! I did the snorkel partly as practice and partly because I had some left over. I may take it off when I get bored with it.
PS, for a really good understanding of AN bolts and plumbing, read "Nuts Bolts, Fasteners and Plumbing Handbook" by Carroll Smith.
[This is where the "Rock On" Emoticon should go...]
I assumed you had the important parts under control and can see what you mean by push on fittings. I can totally see how the std band clamps would look terrible for that application. After researching it a little it appears that they make clamps specifically for this type of application that are slightly different than the ones you probably ruled out.
Not sure if you came across these but they may be an ideal alternative to the safety wire. ABA style fuel injection hose clamps made by AWAB (often called Mini-G) for their full-circle clamping for a good seal and strength. These clamps are sold at most good parts stores and online.
Or if you wanted something permanent you could possibly try out some of these oetiker crimp clamps:
I don't know if Roger has more of it, but it can't hurt to ask. revolutionracing.co.uk
Nice, practice makes perfect. I wonder if that gold foil work to line the inside of a CF exhaust cannister before repacking it to try to keep premature burning?
Ill have to check out that book, sounds awesome!
On another note, how did you manage to rewire the start/stop switch to include the brake light actuation switch from your RCS brake MC?
I have the non RCS MC and a yoyodyne billet brake light actuator that I need to wire in and am having a hard time figuring out how to do it with the OEM lines being all glued together at the ends making it a nightmare to modify.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gashouse_SP2
For anything under pressure, I would never use only safety wire to secure a connection. Note that the feed line is done in proper "AN Fitting" fashion. For the return line I used QD's with push on hose barbs. These are meant to retain "AN" hose without clamps (note this will not work with OE or generic rubber hoses). I had some generic "band clamps" from the auto parts store that were the right size, but they looked like hell. The safety wire is wrapped 4 times to give it some area to work on, but really it is there just to make me feel better.
The vent and overflow lines only have to stay in position, and they dont have to contain flow or pressure, so yes the OE clamps would work here, but I was in a safety wiring kind of mood...
I will give it a shake down ride and then open her up again just to make sure all is OK before I take it too far.
I would love to have some of that stuff!
You're not wrong! I did the snorkel partly as practice and partly because I had some left over. I may take it off when I get bored with it.
PS, for a really good understanding of AN bolts and plumbing, read "Nuts Bolts, Fasteners and Plumbing Handbook" by Carroll Smith.
[This is where the "Rock On" Emoticon should go...]
The Oettikers would have been fine, and I will go that direction if my solution gives any trouble. Again, the feed and return lines are 100%, but I would feel better if the vent and overflow pipes from the stock tank had some kind of barb on them. As they are now, the hoses will not just pull straight off without tools, so I am not too concerned.
As for the MC question, the RCS stuff has the cute little microswitch, but I will have to check my notes to see how I wired them in. If I did it, it couldn't have been too hard. I just used Deutsch connectors and pins instead of the supplied bullet connectors.
The Oettikers would have been fine, and I will go that direction if my solution gives any trouble. Again, the feed and return lines are 100%, but I would feel better if the vent and overflow pipes from the stock tank had some kind of barb on them. As they are now, the hoses will not just pull straight off without tools, so I am not too concerned.
As for the MC question, the RCS stuff has the cute little microswitch, but I will have to check my notes to see how I wired them in. If I did it, it couldn't have been too hard. I just used Deutsch connectors and pins instead of the supplied bullet connectors.
Thank you sir. I have yet to find anyting wrong with it, anything out of the norm that is. No damage at all, no scratches or wear on any of the parts. Its a good way to start a build up.
I took off a 530 Supersprox rear sproket to put on an AFM 520. If you ever want the 530, let me know. It is in excellent condition. I don't know how many original miles it had on it, but it outlasted the RK chain easily and still looks new.
I just installed the same sprocket/chain only 530. I'm curious how long the steel teeth will last on a 520 setup. Love the way these things look.
Yessir. I was practically sold on looks alone, then noticed that they have enough faith in their product to offer a lifetime warranty. I wouldn't buy any other sprocket (and now I won't have to)
Plenty of reviewers have said the same that BlueLunatic just stated. Sprocket looks new after 3 seasons on dirt, several chains, etc.
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