Pinging Robert Haas SP2Racer With Detailed Pictures
Hey Robert,
I have taken a number of pictures of my suspension and they are in this post for visual reasons. I picked up a caliper for measuring the suspension adjustments, and this caliper is in some of the photos. Each photo has a question attached to it, so hopefully my questions will make sense and so will your answers. I have not made any adjustments to my bike yet, nor have I changed anything that DK did to my Forks or Shock, so keep that in mind when you see the photos. Thanks.
Here is the picture of the "Fork Tube" being measured by the caliper from the top of the triple-clamp to the top of the fork tube (not including the blue fork nut in the measurement". The number you gave me (7mm) should be measured here, correct? Currently it is reading 11mm.
Here are two pictures of the rear Ohlins shock. Which threads are you talking about adjusting? You gave me a measurement of "5 threads showing".
Here is a picture of the top of my forks, including the DK Preload adjusters. No matter how hard I try to turn these things, I can't get them to turn at all. They seem to be gold paperweights to me. Are they not installed correctly?
I'm obviously not Robert...but I will comment until he does.
In photo 1 if you are measuring the amount of fork tube above the triple clamp...you are correct.
In photo 2 if you are trying to adjust the ride height...you want the 5 threads showing at the bottom of the shock.
In photo 3 Initially the preload adjustments can be very tight on forks recently rebuilt... take the Kyle adjusters off and turn them with a socket counting the clicks as you slowly turn them. Over a period of time they will loosen up somewhat so you can possibly turn them with the adjusters on.
In photo 4 the master link rivets look to be properly compressed.
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Tanner you are ok with what tom said, one little point to store away is that when putting on a Master link measure the over-all thickness of the link in front of it and then peen the pins until the master is the same thickness.
Tanner you are ok with what tom said, one little point to store away is that when putting on a Master link measure the over-all thickness of the link in front of it and then peen the pins until the master is the same thickness.
Now I get to figure out how to set my sag. I have a feeling this is impossible without having 1-2 buddies there to help you. But now I have the mighty caliper, so anything is possible.
In my personal opinion, you've gone a bit too low with the clamps on the front forks. With the ride height being raised by the rear end already, pushing the clamps down that far is overkill. I had them down to the first guideline on the forks (you can see it in your picture) with a stock rear shock and it made a substantial difference.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Busy Little Shop
The [fact] that the RC45 was a "relative failure" is what matters most...
In my personal opinion, you've gone a bit too low with the clamps on the front forks. With the ride height being raised by the rear end already, pushing the clamps down that far is overkill. I had them down to the first guideline on the forks (you can see it in your picture) with a stock rear shock and it made a substantial difference.
That may be true for your situation, however I have had my forks completely rebuilt with Ohlins internals, and a brand new rear shock, and DK link. All of which were built ith the intention of raising the rear ride height. Robert has been working with me, as has DK, and I trust there ideas and suggestions for someone my size. Thanks for your input, but I need to stick with what Robert and DK says.
Last night I set the forks at the correct mm, and I set the rear shock to the correct amount of threads showing. What is considered the actual thread of something, I assume it is the outside part of the thread not the inside part of the thread, right?
Do yourself a favor, (if you haven't already) and invest in a steering damper. Your changing suspension parts and altering geometery. The RC51 is a stable bike, but headshake can happen to a Schwinn if the circunstances are right. After all this coin that you've put in your bike, I'd hate, (and I'm sure you would too) to see anything bad happen to it..............
Do yourself a favor, (if you haven't already) and invest in a steering damper. Your changing suspension parts and altering geometery. The RC51 is a stable bike, but headshake can happen to a Schwinn if the circunstances are right. After all this coin that you've put in your bike, I'd hate, (and I'm sure you would too) to see anything bad happen to it..............
Trust me, I am going to get a Scotts shortly.
Robert, is there any chance that you can send me some slightly more conservative geometry numbers via p.m. I am not an overly aggresive rider, and I am starting to think that the numbers you gave me are probably great to use, but I am thinking maybe I should start with a less aggresive approach. What do you think?
Pinging Robert Haas SP2Racer With Detailed Pictures
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