As long as the rear doesn't change from a 180/55 to a 190/55 on a 5.5 rim or the michelins had the PRC front you will be fine. I didn't need any changes doing that switch.
I think so. I have my shock one turn from max height. I think thats 6 threads showing plus I have the axel way back in the swingarm. I have the Ohlins 25mm cart kit in the forks which are 4mm from the bottom of the cap to the tripple. Those 25's add a bit more stroke since they are a tad longer which means you don't need to be flush or use those extenders for any addition ground clearance. Cestode on Gixxer.com has his setup in a similar fashion and we both came to the same settings on our own. Not that its right for you but it works for us. I believe Rookie has his setup similar also. My sag is at 25 rear and 37 front. The front compression adjust makes big changes in small turns so go 1/8th at a time.
The fork caps are not for additional ground clearance, but rather are meant to keep the geometry basically flat. With rear Dunlop DOT's and slicks being substantially taller than any other tire this was becoming a real issue.
With both the Michelins and Pirelli's being "normal" height, you shouldnt need to make adjustments other than what you normally would based on preference.
I need to find out what the former owner was running tire wise but my question is more related to what was recommended for the RC back in the day when I actually followed this crap. IIRC, the RC needed approximately 3-6MM shim at the shock mount or fed into an aftermarket shock, is the GSXR dialed in right stock or do I need more ride height out back?
I was going to compare eye2eye measurements on both shocks just to get an idea if he had it at stock height or otherwise.
Do you guys know anyone who went with the Ohlins 20MM kit instead of the 25MM drop in set?
Im having somewhat of a dilemna.....Im currently too strapped to drop $1600 into the 25MM kit. I found two deals that Im somewhat interested in but havent decided which way I should go:
1- an Ohlins 20MM kit (not sure exactly what's included, I think both valves and shimstack) installed on stock internals with fork cap extenders. Asking $800 iirc.
2- a set of '05 GSXR1K forks with the Ohlins 25MM kit installed. Asking $1300 iirc.
Now I know the 1K forks wont just slide in, Ill have to get the 1K lower clamp (<$100) but supposedly everything else bolts right up.
Im thinking about making an offer on either or both and taking it from there. What's your Opinion?
The 05 1k forks are the KYB and are substantially better than the 750's Showa's. The KYB's have the lowest stiction of any production fork outside of R&T's. This is due to their dual fixed bushing, instead of the standard 1 sliding, 1 fixed.
Also, the stock Showa valves actually flow quite well. They really dont need to be replaced with the Ohlins. Rather, you need to figure out the correct stack with the stock valves. Then, get it sprung.
Funny what you said about the KYB's......Im almost positive it was the opposite yrs ago, meaning the Showa's were the better set of forks. But you are correct, I was on the phone with DK the other day and he said the exact same thing as you just did.
Im hoping to get a measurment from the owner tonight in regards to length, I dont want a shorter fork leg. I also failed to ask if the wheels are interchangeable of if Im gonna need to swap those out too if that's the case then it'll probably be easier to just bite the bullet and get the 25MM drop ins for my forks and be done with it.......nothing's easy these days.
Yeah the KYB production forks were not near the quality of the Showas. That changed with the newer fixed bushing forks.
Again, I would not spend the coin on the drop in 25mm carts, as you will be able to go plenty fast on 20mm stuff...at half the price. Also, those KYB's already come with a 25mm piston. Maybe its a 22mm? What ever it is, it has a 12mm rod and displaces plenty of fluid.
Spend the money on tires.
FWIW, I am going faster with my stock revalved RC Showas (HMAS) than people with 25mm drop in kits. The real difference in feel is going to come from the fixed bushing. Id spend the money on the 1k front end if it were me. You should be able to find a decent set of those forks for like $500.
Unless you are really on the edge of winning expert races regularly....
Well, after speaking to another riding buddy of mine he agreed that a revalved set of forks may be all I need cuz I sure as hell aint "on the edge of winning expert races regularly".
I picked up a set of stock '05 1K forks that were revalved by GMD.
Checking with dial calipers it looks like the fork tube that sits at lower clamp will be 1MM too big so I located a set of 1K triple trees for $100......hoping to have everything sorted by the end of the month. At just 1MM I cant help but wonder if the clamp will flex open anough to accept that???
Troy making Summit is looking pretty good for me so Ill definitely keep an eye out for ya if you wind up going.
So I finally got around to dropping my Ohlins shock and a set of GSXR1k forks/lower triple in yesterday.
Using my dial calipers it looks like the Ohlins shock I bought used already has approx 6MM of ride height dialed in, I left it alone for now.
The 1K forks are approximately 2-3MM shorter than the stock 750 forks, I set the top of the tube flush with the top plate (as the stockers were) so I guess Im now running with a 2-3MM dropped front end.
What do you guys think, too much or lil of anything at either end?
I'll probably be at Pocono (FUSA) next Friday so I'll find out sooner than later I suppose.
Call Mike at GMD NYC, which is really in Ct. Well worth the time and $ to have him set up your suspension. Follow his recommendations you will not go wrong. I had him re valve my stock 2006 GSXR 750 forks, set up a Penske twin clicker, set ride height. Bike handles like a dream. To give you an idea I run track days usually front of the middle group, middle of the fast group.
Edit: A change in tires will need a change in ride height. The circumference of the tires will be different.
So I finally got around to dropping my Ohlins shock and a set of GSXR1k forks/lower triple in yesterday.
Using my dial calipers it looks like the Ohlins shock I bought used already has approx 6MM of ride height dialed in, I left it alone for now.
The 1K forks are approximately 2-3MM shorter than the stock 750 forks, I set the top of the tube flush with the top plate (as the stockers were) so I guess Im now running with a 2-3MM dropped front end.
What do you guys think, too much or lil of anything at either end?
I'll probably be at Pocono (FUSA) next Friday so I'll find out sooner than later I suppose.
It's going to be very very heavy on the front with those forks set at flush. I have played and played with the setup of this bike and settled on the forks need to way down in the clamps -1.5mm and the rear around 322mm. I am using SC pro's and the rear is almost 3/4 of inch taller than the PR. There is a reason that ohlins doesn't suggest forks for this bike. Its because they are to stiff. This bike doesn't get the jack the rear drop the front set up of the older gsxr's.
Last edited by EvilTwin-05; 04-23-2008 at 03:11 PM.
It's going to be very very heavy on the front with those forks set at flush. I have played and played with the setup of this bike and settled on the forks need to way down in the clamps -1.5mm and the rear around 322mm. I am using SC pro's and the rear is almost 3/4 of inch taller than the PR. There is a reason that ohlins doesn't suggest forks for this bike. Its because they are to stiff. This bike doesn't get the jack the rear drop the front set up of the older gsxr's.
Are you saying that the top of the fork tube is below the top of the tripples??
Yes I am. Depending on the conditions and feedback I move it from +1 flush to -2. I'll need to check the shock it may have more lenght in it. I'd need to pull it to measure.
I was plagued by the feeling that the front was near tucking when it was at stock height up front (worse on the Michelin). I needed rear ride height to help finish corners and prevent dragging. I was really stuck trying to push the bike but avoid loosing the front. At Jennings I dropped the front 3mm and it solved my roasting the front tire and the feeling the front was close to going away. That 3mm concerned me about the clamping area left on the forks. So played with them a bit at Barber and found anything from +1 to -2 worked but the front tire (SC1) looked best and felt best at 1.5. That testing took place on a reletively warm day at 75 degrees. I then went to Road Atlanta and found that at even at 45 degrees ( damn cold) the tires still gave good feed back and no sensation of not enough front grip or poor turn in. Granted that track is fast and T-3,5 and 7 are probably the hardest on the tires, but I didnt have any isses. I would like to have had warmer temps to compare.
Let me also add that if I were to use a DC3 I would probably set the forks at flush/+1 since that tire is so much shorter than the SC pro's.
Last edited by EvilTwin-05; 04-24-2008 at 03:03 PM.
if I were to use a DC3 I would probably set the forks at flush/+1 since that tire is so much shorter than the SC pro's.
Would you happen to have the actual numbers? Ive been meaning to find that out since I have a brand new set sitting in the garage.
Well, last yr with even a stock suspension I thought the bike felt pretty good. It'll be interesting to see how the bike feels tomorrow with the crazy adjustments on there right now......
According to the pirrelli spec. the tires are the same size. However the tape showed the dc3 and rains at 79in. cir and the sc pro at 79.75. mounted on a 5.5 rim. Not sure what is going on but maybe the sc grew from use.
One thing that is consistant on tha chart is the width differance. The dc3 says 178 and the sc pro is 185. Front width remains the same.
I just mounted and measured another and got 79.75 again so that chart must be wrong.
Last edited by EvilTwin-05; 04-26-2008 at 03:23 AM.
Well, I rode at Pocono FUSA course yesterday and I gotta tell ya I think it definitely rode better than stock. It didnt seem as unstable when changing lines mid corner while moving at a good clip like it did last yr.
Im planning on giving Mike F. a call this week to hear what he recommends with this set up.
Im planning on giving Mike F. a call this week to hear what he recommends with this set up.
Thought I'd give an update on my dilemna just in case someone else is looking for the same info.
So I made that call and as luck would have it Mike doesnt recommend GSXR1k forks on the 750. He thinks they're too beefy for my bike and highly recommends I stick with OEM.
So here I sit wondering which way I should go. Im not racing this yr so Im not in any real hurry (that might change tho for the CCS Barber round in August) so Im thinking about waiting on someone who's selling a set of STOCK 750 revalved or 25MM kitted forks.
I could send them to Mike for his $700 revalve (includes Ohlins 20MM kit) or LE for their $600 revalve but in the past few months Ive seen some good deals come n go on 25MM kitted forks for about that or a lil more including the forks. I know how I am and it'll just piss me off if I send them out and then run into a great deal soon afterwards.
GSXR Geometry (Michelin vs Pirelli)
He thinks they're too beefy for my bike and highly recommends I stick with OEM.
Linear Mode
