Sharkskinz body work
Sato Rear Sets
Michelin DOT race tires
Cobra FI module
Arrow slip on
Ohlins 25 mm cartridges in forks
Ohlins shock
Ohlins steering damper
Brembo 19 x 18 brake master cylinder
looks very good, i likey. whats the module you installed? do you have a power commander on it? i was just wondering i heard people having problems with power commanders on these.
Sharkskinz body work
Sato Rear Sets
Michelin DOT race tires
Cobra FI module
Arrow slip on
Ohlins 25 mm cartridges in forks
Ohlins shock
Ohlins steering damper
Brembo 19 x 18 brake master cylinder
OK, I am going to ask a lot at once, so take it easy on me!
First, I am staring in semi-despair at my track body work (Armour bodies, if that matters) and the bike. Any hints on mounting it? My biggest question is wtf to do with the places where the stock body work has a pressure fit stud. What do I do to mount the aftermarket stuff to those places? Other than measure 3 times, drill once, and use patience, anything else I should know?
Secondly, I just ordered an Ohlins rear shock. One day at the track on my bike/barcalounger convinced me that stock suspension had to go. Budget didnt include a kit for the front yet, but the rear is gone, and so is the damper. So how hard is it to mount the rear? Just how much do I need to pull apart to get at it? Any tricks I should know that will make it extraordinarily easy? In the grand scheme of things I am not too worried, I am armed with a set of tools, a shop manual, and 2 weeks until the next track day, but any help or guidance you could give would be hugely appreciated...
I am editing because I already forgot: the front fender only really comes off when the front tire does, right? And what do I do with the electrical sensor after the kickstand comes off? Help me o wise one, please!
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2005 MV Agusta F4 1000 AGO
2006 Suzuki GSX-R750
OK, I am going to ask a lot at once, so take it easy on me!
First, I am staring in semi-despair at my track body work (Armour bodies, if that matters) and the bike. Any hints on mounting it? My biggest question is wtf to do with the places where the stock body work has a pressure fit stud. What do I do to mount the aftermarket stuff to those places? Other than measure 3 times, drill once, and use patience, anything else I should know?
Secondly, I just ordered an Ohlins rear shock. One day at the track on my bike/barcalounger convinced me that stock suspension had to go. Budget didnt include a kit for the front yet, but the rear is gone, and so is the damper. So how hard is it to mount the rear? Just how much do I need to pull apart to get at it? Any tricks I should know that will make it extraordinarily easy? In the grand scheme of things I am not too worried, I am armed with a set of tools, a shop manual, and 2 weeks until the next track day, but any help or guidance you could give would be hugely appreciated...
I am editing because I already forgot: the front fender only really comes off when the front tire does, right? And what do I do with the electrical sensor after the kickstand comes off? Help me o wise one, please!
Bodywork is not hard to mount. Take your time and get a friend to help. Go to Lowes or Home Depot and buy a uni bit makes drilling easier. Use the OEM rubber gromets in the holes where necessary.
Rear shock can be installed once you support the bike through the swingarm pivot (nice long thin steel rod works great on jack stands) or hang the bike by the subframe overheard. Be sure to grease the link/shock pivot areas since they come with very little if any grease from the factory, bel-ray water proof works best. Re-torque to factory specs a shop manual helps with this.
On '05 and prior models (I have not looked closely at a '06 but I bet its similar) all you had to do on a kickstand removal/swithc disable was either cut the connector and twist the two wires together or do like I do and go to the Suzuki dealer and get the female brass OEM connectors join them with a piece of electricla wire and plug this into the connector on the bike, no more switch activity since it is wired open now.
Front fender can only be removed after front wheel is off, unbolt it completely lift up on it turn it 90 degrees and slide it down the fork tubes.
Thanks Ballz that helps me out. My only remaining things is the bodywork. Maybe it is different on the 04/05 but the 06 has big mushroom shaped studs on the stock bodywork that pressure fit into rubber mounts in the frame (the two I am worried about are positioned right below your knees if you were sitting on the bike). I have no idea how to mount the track work there, and that is a big important mount for it.
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2005 MV Agusta F4 1000 AGO
2006 Suzuki GSX-R750
Thanks Ballz that helps me out. My only remaining things is the bodywork. Maybe it is different on the 04/05 but the 06 has big mushroom shaped studs on the stock bodywork that pressure fit into rubber mounts in the frame (the two I am worried about are positioned right below your knees if you were sitting on the bike). I have no idea how to mount the track work there, and that is a big important mount for it.
I was thinking the exact same thing... My 04 has that also. The body work should be arriving anytime now.
Balls looks like the go to guy as far as questions! soo he will be asking us for $
I will be soldering the 2 kick stand wires together and using heal shrink to seal it up.
And I figured the front fender out after about an hour! SHEESH!
How about removing the left hand light switches? I had the switch box apart and it's all soldered. Can this be removed with out to much trouble?
I was thinking the exact same thing... My 04 has that also. The body work should be arriving anytime now.
Balls looks like the go to guy as far as questions! soo he will be asking us for $
I will be soldering the 2 kick stand wires together and using heal shrink to seal it up.
And I figured the front fender out after about an hour! SHEESH!
How about removing the left hand light switches? I had the switch box apart and it's all soldered. Can this be removed with out to much trouble?
How about rear sets. Are they needed on the 04?
Left hand switches need to be cut and taped. Be careful to preserve the clutch sensor (dont cut it at all--those two wires come out of the rest of the bundle about an inch or two before the bars). I just left the whole mess stock; I didn't want to be cutting that much.
I find the stock pegs to be crap. I move my feet around a lot when I ride on the track and I find them catching on my boots and wanting to fold up and what not. I can't wait to get my new rearsets on.
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2005 MV Agusta F4 1000 AGO
2006 Suzuki GSX-R750
Left hand switches need to be cut and taped. Be careful to preserve the clutch sensor (dont cut it at all--those two wires come out of the rest of the bundle about an inch or two before the bars). I just left the whole mess stock; I didn't want to be cutting that much.
I find the stock pegs to be crap. I move my feet around a lot when I ride on the track and I find them catching on my boots and wanting to fold up and what not. I can't wait to get my new rearsets on.
I will leave the switch box there and get rear sets! Thx~
Thanks Ballz that helps me out. My only remaining things is the bodywork. Maybe it is different on the 04/05 but the 06 has big mushroom shaped studs on the stock bodywork that pressure fit into rubber mounts in the frame (the two I am worried about are positioned right below your knees if you were sitting on the bike). I have no idea how to mount the track work there, and that is a big important mount for it.
Those will not be used on the race bodywork at least they were not used on the '05.
If my '05 was not so good I'd go buy a '06 and I would with out a doubt answer all your questions 100% within a weeks time but for now I'm relying on 20 years of working/riding Suzuki's and understanding the engineering that goes into them. Suzuki likes to change things up a little between the 2 year cyles but mostly its small things like electrical connections and bodywork attachments. I can work through this sort of stuff even a bad Suzuki is way easier to work on than any Honda ever made. sort of like a bad day riding is still better than a good day at work.
Those will not be used on the race bodywork at least they were not used on the '05.
If my '05 was not so good I'd go buy a '06 and I would with out a doubt answer all your questions 100% within a weeks time but for now I'm relying on 20 years of working/riding Suzuki's and understanding the engineering that goes into them. Suzuki likes to change things up a little between the 2 year cyles but mostly its small things like electrical connections and bodywork attachments. I can work through this sort of stuff even a bad Suzuki is way easier to work on than any Honda ever made. sort of like a bad day riding is still better than a good day at work.
Your in trouble now!!!! I have you on speed dial!!!!!
I really cant wait to get the 04 600 out there. I hope it is better than the RC, 748, F3, or F2 ever were!
Here she is in all her glory as of 6/15. Now with the new vortex short sliders...
All stock with 1780 miles! Ohh and GP shift pattern!, wired for trackdays and a couple other bits...
I had one just like it I raced back in '04. Good motorcycle never had any problems with it. I bought it at cost, put 100 street miles on it and went to the track with it. I redid the suspension front and rear, vortex gearing, braided lines, sharkskinz bodywork, re-mapped the FI, full system M4 race exhaust and that was it. It was a top five runner in WERA and was getting better all the time until I pulled the plug on racing later that year. Trust me its way better than all those other bikes combined in stock for. Change that tall OEM gearing for short tracks I liked 3.00 final which was -1 on the front, easy to do.
OK, I just wanted to give a big shout out to everybody who helped answer my questions. Many thanks to you, it made things much easier for me.
I now have one Suzuki GSXR750 06 with:
- Brembo lever and Galfer lines
- Ohlins steering damper
- Vortex clip ons
- Vortex rearsets
- Ohlins rear shock
- Armourbodies body work with a $20 rattle can special in hot rod black
- And (I am sure I will get $hit for this one) Pirelli Diabo Superbike SC2 slicks which are more fun than being in a Swedish whorehouse with a fistfull of $100 bills.
The bike runs great. A couple of quick comparison to the MV:
- It ain't anywhere near as fast or as powerful. The engine pulls like a tractor above 10,000 rpm, but is a little anemic below that.
- It just feels "loose" compared to the MV. The suspension is way softer, the steering a little less precise, and the feel from the front end is just not quite there.
- The transmission is also pretty notchy on the GSXR by comparison, and the clutch not as smooth (do the factory guys do a hydraulic clutch conversion on these things?) Generally the bike just isn't as refined.
So now the rear work begins on making it behave the way I want. It seems a little bouncy (underdamped?) at the moment, and as I said, the front end is still a little vague. Anybody have any suggestions for what to do to the rear ride height? At the moment, I have the Ohlins all the way down, which pretty much mimics stock. Also, how do I measure this accurate to account for differences in tires? (Last track day was pushing 100 degrees so they are getting shredded quick.) Any other suggestions for making it quicker? Oh, and one other impression: it is not all that stable at high speeds--at 140+ it moves around a lot. Not in a totally unnerving way, but way more than I am used to with the 999 or MV.
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2005 MV Agusta F4 1000 AGO
2006 Suzuki GSX-R750
I'm brand new to the track thing and haven't bought a track bike yet but am pretty close on getting a GSXR 750. What are the basic components I'd need to start with on the track? Eg. Bodywork, etc......