clutch springs

hey guys -- does it matter what kind of springs I put in with a new clutch? Do Stainless work as well as regular steel? I'm suspicious after I put Stainless brake rotor bolts in and some stripped in the hex cause stainless is not as hard as regular steel.

I haven't heard of any problems with the stainless as opposed to non-stainless steel springs. I run regular steel and haven't had any problems with corrosion. For me I just went with what came with the clutch pack from Barnett. I don't run a fully open clutch though, so the cosmetic aspect isn't really important to me.

You could always run the steel and use one of those hub stabilizers that covers the springs anyways. Those things look pretty cool, does anyone know if they actually work, or are they really just for dress?

I use mostly ss clutch springs & have never had (or heard of) a problem. But, I also use ss rotor bolts, so who knows?

my .02 on this. i installed stainless springs and retainers with a new clutch pack in the Hotrod M944. worked fine on the street for many miles. the 1st track day though they heated up and got soft. i thought i cooked my clutch with all the engine braking (hi-comp 944 w/light flywheel). a Duc racer in the pits had one of those caliper measure type tools and we measured the "resistance" of the stainless and the stock steel (he loaned me a set) and there was a pretty big difference. all was well with the steel springs back in. i rode the rest of the day without issue. so if it's street use or you don't engine brake much they are probably fine. i put the steels that came with the Barnett pack back in and left 'em.

Thanks a million Mike -- that's just what I was thinking. Stainless has it's value of course. In certain applications the non rust thing is valuable. However stainless is not to be compared to special heat treated hardened alloy steels for strength or spring qualities.

Barnett's springs are galvanized steel, so they shouldn't rust. And they are priced well.