I've been wondering the same thing. Even sent them an email asking if my bike required drilling the frame, with no answer. I just can't see how these bolts could make a noticeable difference but would still consider them if several guys had real experience with them.
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Bob Hancock
Warner Robins, GA
'98 900SS/SP FE #339
'06 PS1000LE
'07 R1200S
Yes, a "must do" on any SS,851,888!!!
No you do not have to drill the frame on any of these bikes, probably do have to drill the engine (in the frame), that's part of the deal! Not a big deal to drill.
the stock bolts are undersized, don't fit the engine cases well at all. the Nichols bolts are the "correct" size and prevent flexing of the engine.swingarm,frame. Really tightens up your bike, also prevents your engine cases from cracking.
Yes, a "must do" on any SS,851,888!!!
No you do not have to drill the frame on any of these bikes, probably do have to drill the engine (in the frame), that's part of the deal! Not a big deal to drill.
Bob, you know me,,,trust me, do it!
Marvin,
When you say "drill the engine", can you give a little more detail please.
Following that logic, then they arent the right size, they are a bit too big ergo, its really not ducati whove made any design errors, as theirs fit the size they made... thats what i can gather from the above claims
That said, ive never heard of anyone having any of the stated problems, due to undersized engine bolts... im not debating wether or not they give any added stability, though i doubt it can be very significant, i just dont see a problem with the current set up...
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2002 750ss, pcIII custom map, carbon termi pipes, k&n w. open filter box, lighter flywheel, clearalt rear light, with both black and yellow tanks and ff. Alu Swingarm.
I'm gonna order the new bolts. When I get them I'll see if they press fit in. If for some reason the engine holes are too tight, I'll measure the bolts and get a reamer to match the two. Reaming, in lieu of drilling, is what you would want to do in this application. MSC Industrial supply has a pretty good selection.
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Bob Hancock
Warner Robins, GA
'98 900SS/SP FE #339
'06 PS1000LE
'07 R1200S
Bob, I used a reamer as well. The holes in the case are really sloppy, like cast. the stock bolts are quite a bit smaller than the hole.
I have seen the stock bolts get loose and then the cases can break. I have a 94' Monster that had the front bolt loosen and the cases are toast (before I got the bike) But if you don't think you need them, don't get em' ! I put them in every bike!
Marvin, it's the cases that worry me. I trust you that they are poor fit and the bolts loose, so I sent an email to Nichols....may call them later today. Do you still have the reamer you used?
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Bob Hancock
Warner Robins, GA
'98 900SS/SP FE #339
'06 PS1000LE
'07 R1200S
Marvin, it's the cases that worry me. I trust you that they are poor fit and the bolts loose, so I sent an email to Nichols....may call them later today. Do you still have the reamer you used?
Bob, I'm sure I do, can send it to you on loan if you want me too, although they aren't that expensive from MSC, import jobbies seem to be OK.
It is the extreme case to have the cases break but it does happen. The real reason to do it is to make the bike handle better. I noticed the difference on my 851 immediately. Nichols isn't an idiot, he didn't produce them just to have something to sell!!
Marvin, it's the cases that worry me. I trust you that they are poor fit and the bolts loose, so I sent an email to Nichols....may call them later today. Do you still have the reamer you used?
Please post your finding when/if you hear back from Nichols.
I just talked to them. Basically, to find out if you have to drill the frame or not, take the rubber cap off the right rear engine mounting bolt. If you see a nut...no need to drill. But if the bolt, which comes in from the left side screws into the frame and so all you see is the end of the bolt...gotta drill. Basically what you are doing is drilling the threads out so that the Nichols bolt passes through. You then use the Nichols titanium nuts on each side to tighten things up. He also advised me not to ream the engine cases all the way through, saying that there's a steel insert in there that the Nichols bolt is made to press fit, so reaming is really not necessary. He says it's easy to do...they do it for customers at Nichols for free. I expect to drill the frame on the right side using a reamer or drill bit of the recommended size, and tap the bolt through with my dead blow or brass hammer. Torque her down and be proud. Parts should be here in a week or so.
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Bob Hancock
Warner Robins, GA
'98 900SS/SP FE #339
'06 PS1000LE
'07 R1200S
are my notes.
"12Jan07. 9759 miles. Installed Nichols steel engine mount bolts. (Nichols bolts are 0.4052” in diameter, while stock soft steel bolts are 0.389” in diameter. Stock ones fit noticeably looser than Nichols.) Front bolt had a nut on the right side so did not need the frame drilled. Rear bolt was screwed into the frame so needed to be drilled out with a 13/32” drill bit (0.406”). The Nichols titanium nuts do not show from the frame equally on each side in order to have equal thread and grip on each side, so use of the Nichols provided gauge is recommended."
In order to insure I didn't booger up the frame drilling I made a guide to hold the drill bit steady. Also, I had to get a new drill because my old one would only take up to 3/8" and the 13/32" size wouldn't fit.
Overall, the quality of the bolts with their titanium nuts is outstanding. I was surprised how easy it was to remove the stock bolts and more difficult to install the new ones. 16 thousandths really makes a difference. I'll try to ride this weekend to evaluate. All in all a fun and easy project.
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Bob Hancock
Warner Robins, GA
'98 900SS/SP FE #339
'06 PS1000LE
'07 R1200S
Did you notice a difference on the bike in how it handled?
Quote:
Originally Posted by bobducati
are my notes.
"12Jan07. 9759 miles. Installed Nichols steel engine mount bolts. (Nichols bolts are 0.4052” in diameter, while stock soft steel bolts are 0.389” in diameter. Stock ones fit noticeably looser than Nichols.) Front bolt had a nut on the right side so did not need the frame drilled. Rear bolt was screwed into the frame so needed to be drilled out with a 13/32” drill bit (0.406”). The Nichols titanium nuts do not show from the frame equally on each side in order to have equal thread and grip on each side, so use of the Nichols provided gauge is recommended."
In order to insure I didn't booger up the frame drilling I made a guide to hold the drill bit steady. Also, I had to get a new drill because my old one would only take up to 3/8" and the 13/32" size wouldn't fit.
Overall, the quality of the bolts with their titanium nuts is outstanding. I was surprised how easy it was to remove the stock bolts and more difficult to install the new ones. 6 thousandths really makes a difference. I'll try to ride this weekend to evaluate. All in all a fun and easy project.
Has anyone installed this Mod?
Linear Mode
