New clutch pack help

jjp1000ss · #1 (**permalink**) 12-06-2006, 10:40 PM

I'd like to get some advice on changing out my clutch plates. It's a '03 1000ss with about 7500 semi aggressive street miles.

I have the service manual and the Haynes manual (Haynes only covers the 900 though).

I have not pulled anything apart as of yet, and I'm going on the assumption that that there is nothing else wrong with any other components. Just an OEM clutch plate and pressure plate bearing change (leaving the basket and clutch drum). If there is anything else worn out that I can see I will deal with it at that time.

As far as specifics:

-Stack height of new plates?

-Plate order?

-Beveled plate location?

-Push rod inspection?

Any advice on disassembly and reassembly would be much appreciated.

It seems easy enough, but this is my first replacement and would like some experienced opinions.

I tried a search but didn't come up with much.
Thanks

GregP · #2 (**permalink**) 12-07-2006, 12:08 AM

I changed out a set in a wet clutch so had to pull the side case. However, once pulled, take out retainer springs/bolts, pull out old plates and keep in order for reference, take a visual on the basket and the rod, put the plates back in the same order, pressure plate, new springs and tourque them down to 4 foot pounds and go ride.

I changed the springs and retainers on my 1000 last week and was amazed at how lightly you torque down the springs. Just past finger tight/4 ft lbs was the directive.

motoxxx79 · #3 (**permalink**) 12-07-2006, 03:50 AM

make sure to note the direction of the steel plates when you re-install them. What i mean is...the steel plates are "stamped" one side will have a slight burr, one will not! It has more of a rounded edge. When installing them (steel plates) between the friction plates, make sure the smooth edge is facing out towards you (so it will not hang up upon activation of the clutch). The pressure from the springs pressing down on the assy. will be plenty to overcome the "burred side" facing in. Not doing this is one of the primary reasons people have difficulty finding neutral when sitting still on a running bike (the other reason is the stack height is too tall). Also, make sure the first plate you install is the "Spring Plate" (will be slightly thicker than the other steel plates). Hope this helps, PM me if you have any more questions, i'd be glad to talk you through it, its easier than it sounds.

Norm · #4 (**permalink**) 12-07-2006, 02:39 PM

Don't overtighten the spring bolts (unless you want to buy a new hub anyway). I use anti seize & just bottom them.

cugno749 · #5 (**permalink**) 12-07-2006, 02:52 PM

I replaced my oem clutch with a barnette and have trouble finding neutral. Does that direction with the steel plates apply to this clutch on a 800ss (wet clutch)? Looked the same both sides when I installed. No rounded edge. Followed all the procedures. Soaked in oil before installation. Followed the same sequence as oem. Was tight as hell when I first tried running it again. Took several heat cycles to loosen up. Reminds me of my first ....never mind. Barnette confirmed the 2-3 heat cycle.

jjp1000ss · #6 (**permalink**) 12-07-2006, 02:53 PM

Thanks guys. Just the kind of stuff I'm looking for.

motoxxx79 · #7 (**permalink**) 12-07-2006, 06:56 PM

i just replaced a customers barnett with an OEM because of difficulty finding neutral. For some reason, the Barnett seems to have a higher stack height than stock (OEM) prob. cuz it has more material. I would just ride the barnett out personally, eventully it should wear itself in. If you have continued difficulty finding neutral after a few thousand miles, it might be time to check the steel plates with your next oil change. Hope this helps

Norm · #8 (**permalink**) 12-08-2006, 02:52 PM

While putting the steel plates with the stamping in one direction is a good idea, if you don't do it, your clutch should still work fine. I find that soaking the wet clutch plates overnight eliminates the initial stickiness.

GregP · #9 (**permalink**) 12-09-2006, 02:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by motoxxx79

i just replaced a customers barnett with an OEM because of difficulty finding neutral. For some reason, the Barnett seems to have a higher stack height than stock (OEM) prob. cuz it has more material. I would just ride the barnett out personally, eventully it should wear itself in. If you have continued difficulty finding neutral after a few thousand miles, it might be time to check the steel plates with your next oil change. Hope this helps

I had this same experience with the wet clutch and Barnett plates. Had a mate claim the same experience as well. In my case I think I cinched the bolts too tightly and with a wet clutch this isn't an easy recheck. I lived with it until the bike was sold.

I was happy with the Barnett plates and springs otherwise.

Not sure he's going to have to worry about this with the dry set-up.

BLZ2DWL · #10 (**permalink**) 12-11-2006, 10:30 PM

Keep in mind that you can mix and match your steel plates to get the right height. The Barnett stack is only as tall as you make it! I beleive you can get away with 36-38mm. Use and old steel if you need to and get the stack height right. You might even have to mix them up later on to bring the stack back up after it wears in, but its easy enough to do.

Brennan