Recently purchased a 2001 900SS with 3000 miles on it. I am attempting to start my winter maintenance program and want to check or replace cam belts since they are 6 years old!!!!
This is my third Ducati and I have performed all the maintenance on my other bikes.
Well in trying to remove the cam belt covers I have found that the two top screws on each cover are "as tight as a bull in mating season". I think that it is a combination of corrosion and overtightening at the factory. I know that trying to remove them will require excess torque that will probably strip the nut which is molded into the rubber cam backing plate. Obviously I can't heat the screw or nut because the plastic cam cover and or rubber backing plate will melt, and I don't want to apply excessive torque for fear of breaking the molded rubberbacking plate. ( Don't ask me how I know, been there before).
Has anyone else encountered a same problem and any recommended solutions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
Have you tried soaking them with break free and lightly tapping the allen wrench with a hammer to cause a vibration to get the break free into the threads ? Are the nuts exposed from the rear of the backing plate to get any lube into them ? Also allow them to sit overnight with the break free and try tomorrow. A hand held impact driver (manual with a hammer, not air or electric) might shock them loose but might rip the nuts out also.
I have a 2002 900ss and they are always too tight, they snap when you loosen then screws. I also used never seize the last time I put them back on.
Dan,
Thanks for your suggestions. I tried the tapping with a punch, then moved on to the hand impact wrench and used as much force as I thought was prudent, no success. The nuts are molded into the cam cover and are not exposed so you really can't apply penetrating oil to the nut. I think I will try slightly separating the cover from the backing plate and injecting so penetrating oil and hope that it finds its way, and then repeat the tapping process. Also found that I have the same problem with the screws that mount the oil cooler.
Thanks for your suggetions, thats what makes this site so great!
By the way anyone with a newer 900SS (fuel Injected). If you are experencing some vibration or slightly high idle. check the intake manifold for the screw in the air port for the evap canister. When I went to remove the canister I found the the "technican" at the factory who installed the screw only threaded the adaptor into the rubber intake manifold part way and the hose and the adaptor were lose resulting in a vacuum leak. It was subtle and hard to notice
While I haven't used an air hammer on this part I've put it to good use on other wrenching efforts of similar delicacy. The key has been to set the hammer as soft as it will go....gives lots of little licks and breaks things free without damage. HTH.
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Bob Hancock
Warner Robins, GA
'98 900SS/SP FE #339
'06 PS1000LE
'07 R1200S
I have a Ryobi electric impact driver, it says it can generate up to 88 lb ft of torque. I do not believe that torque rating. It is variable speed and comes with a 3/8 drive socket adaptor. I use it on the bike occasionally. Maybe the vibration from something like this can break up the corrosion that is locking up the bolt. I have 5mm long allen wrench socket that I have used on the cam cover bolts on my bike.
Guys, thanks for all the suggestions and help. Got the four screws out of the tops of the cambelt covers. A little PB blaster and the a judicious amount of force from the impact driver did the trick, No damage.
But as I mentioned I had a similar problem with the screws to the mount of the oil cooler. Welll things didn't go as planned. The first screw released and was ok. Feeling my oats I let have it at the second screw (other side). BROKE the mounting tab off the cooler. For you guys who haven't been there, the mounting tab has a small piece of tubing truncating in its base. If you look at it from the bottom you can see a small nub. Well when the tab broke off it took a piecs of the tube with it and voila and small hole in the base of the cooler. A word of advice if you encounter a similar situation, DO NOT apply a torque of twisting force to the cooler, attempt to hold the cooler mounting tab from rotating while you wrench off the screw. Also it appears that the supplier to the factory uses some sort of liquid metal to bond the tab to the cooler. I wonder what it is ?
Has anyone had any experience in repairing aluminum. Where should I take it for repair or can I attempt a fix myself?
You could probably JBWeld it and it might hold forever.....but if it doesn't, that's a bad situation to be in. Oiling yourself and your back tire isn't going to be fun. Since its the cooler and not a more integral part of the motor, I'd take it off and find a welding shop to fix it up for few bucks. Or, you could check with DesmoBob who is parting out a 97SS and see if he would part with his. From his pictures, his cooler is either brand new or just really clean, so that would be a nice way to go. His posting is somewhere close to the top, check him out, he's great to deal with.
Before I elect to commit to a weld or an epoxy solution, I was just wondering what experience or success or failures anyone has had with J B Weld or a similar product.
I'm not sure if I would JB weld the part your talking about. I've seen it used to plug a small hole in an engine case ( and hold) but I've seen it break loose in other applications too.
I've got the stock one from a '95 sitting on the shelf. If DesmoBob doesn't have his left I can hook you up cheap with mine...
Post up a pic and it might help someone with a bit more experience tell you if it's worth the effort. If you can't post a pic, send it to me and i'll post it...
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Cheers - Chris -
There are only 2 variables in life; Time and Money
Need help with Cam belt cover removal
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