Oil level - Stupid question but I have to ask

[lgalang]

Can someone confirm the correct way to check oil level? The manual says keep the bike upright and look at the sight glass while the engine is warm… Does that mean I have to balance the bike to make sure it’s standing straight up and look at the sight glass? Or upright resting on the side stand? The oil level is very different between two methods. I have an 800 SS and embarrassed to ask but kind of have to.

[Capt. Home Slice]

Originally Posted by lgalang

Does that mean I have to balance the bike to make sure it’s standing straight up and look at the sight glass?

Yes.

Originally Posted by lgalang

Or upright resting on the side stand? The

No.

[jager]

Much easier/more accurate if you have a friend or rear stand.

[lgalang]

Originally Posted by jager

Much easier/more accurate if you have a friend or rear stand.

I have a pit bull rear stand. But I don't think that would be very accurate because it's tilted. But would it still be?

[jager]

If its tilted or not on level ground, then no. My pit bull keeps the bike level, how is yours tilted, is it the ground or is the stand bent?

[chaas67]

I wouldn't check the oil level while it's on a rear stand....

I've noticed that with my Baxley wheel chock the oil level, in the sight glass, doesn't change....

I usually just hold on to the right grip and the right rearset - haven't dropped the bike yet.

[Just Riding Along]

Both wheels have to be level and perpendicular. If you had a front and rear stand that had the bike dead level then you'd be set.

[jager]

Originally Posted by Just Riding Along

Both wheels have to be level and perpendicular. If you had a front and rear stand that had the bike dead level then you'd be set.

Der, I wasn't thinking I guess. I see how its tilted now.

[lgalang]

Originally Posted by jager

If its tilted or not on level ground, then no. My pit bull keeps the bike level, how is yours tilted, is it the ground or is the stand bent?

Mine is slightly tilted. I guess I just answered my own question.

[hubert]

I always checked my Supersport's oil level and my 996's oil leve on a level surface, up on the rear stand; the incline angle from the bike being on the rear, I would doubt, has an appreciable effect on the oil level - how much oil is an angle of such little inclination really going to displace?
To this day, it's worked just fine.
Do it on the rear stand, get it roughly to the top line and you're golden.

[hubert]

Originally Posted by mouser830

I changed my oil and mfilter and added the 3.9L stated for a 99 900ss. The level is well above the max on the site glass. I drained the oil completly?

Anybody have this experience
\
Scott

After the oil change, did you start the bike and then re-check the oil level?

[Iliketorideonmyside]

Remember there is some oil in the oil cooler and lines that won't get drained with each oil change. I fill it to full level then start, top off and start again, do this till its stays at top mark.

[ducs_in_seattle]

I myself consider this Rube Goldberg but it works. Years ago I took an 8' 2"x8" and cut 2' off of it. On the 6' piece I drilled and countersunk an eyebolt at each end. Then roll the front wheel in the middle of the 6' piece and put it back on the rear stand. Zip tie the front brake lever back and take motorcycle straps and strap the bike level to the eyebolts. Put the remaining 2' piece under the rear tire and let it off the rear stand. The bike is level and stable and you have all hands free to top off oil as needed. Don't laugh, it's cheaper then a front stand.

[blueSS]

Originally Posted by mouser830

I changed my oil and mfilter and added the 3.9L stated for a 99 900ss. The level is well above the max on the site glass. I drained the oil completly?

Anybody have this experience
\
Scott

Are you warming the engine up before you change the oil? I was always told to warm the oil up a bit before changing it, that way the oil is a bit thinner and flows a bit better out of the motor. Take it out for a five or ten minute ride, let it cool for fifteen minutes or so to where it won't burn you, then do the oil change.

Another thing a buddy showed me was that when you think all the oil is out of the engine, take it off the rear stand, get on it, and rock it left and right. You'll be surprised at how much more oil actually comes out of the motor. I was told it was the design of the engine cases that pools some of the oil on one side when you change the oil. Rocking it gets this pooled oil out of the cases. I've never seen the inside of my cases, so I don't know if this is what is truly going on, or if the rocking frees up oil that is in the cooler or whatnot, but it sure as hell works.

Hope this helps.

[lgalang]

Originally Posted by blueSS

Are you warming the engine up before you change the oil? I was always told to warm the oil up a bit before changing it, that way the oil is a bit thinner and flows a bit better out of the motor. Take it out for a five or ten minute ride, let it cool for fifteen minutes or so to where it won't burn you, then do the oil change.

Another thing a buddy showed me was that when you think all the oil is out of the engine, take it off the rear stand, get on it, and rock it left and right. You'll be surprised at how much more oil actually comes out of the motor. I was told it was the design of the engine cases that pools some of the oil on one side when you change the oil. Rocking it gets this pooled oil out of the cases. I've never seen the inside of my cases, so I don't know if this is what is truly going on, or if the rocking frees up oil that is in the cooler or whatnot, but it sure as hell works.

Hope this helps.

Good Stuff!

[redduck]

Originally Posted by ducs_in_seattle

I myself consider this Rube Goldberg but it works. Years ago I took an 8' 2"x8" and cut 2' off of it. On the 6' piece I drilled and countersunk an eyebolt at each end. Then roll the front wheel in the middle of the 6' piece and put it back on the rear stand. Zip tie the front brake lever back and take motorcycle straps and strap the bike level to the eyebolts. Put the remaining 2' piece under the rear tire and let it off the rear stand. The bike is level and stable and you have all hands free to top off oil as needed. Don't laugh, it's cheaper then a front stand.

No offense, but good lord!!! If they meant for there to be an EXACT amount of oil in the bike, there would be ONE line in the site glass...

The oil needs to be between the upper and lower marks while the bike is upright. I keep my bike on its rear stand all the time (takes less space in my small garage) so the level as read on the rear stand has always been my reference point. Before riding, I give it a quick look. When changing, on the rear stand, I replace the oil to about 2/3 of the site glass (or just below the upper mark) and ride. By the time I hit 2000 (or 3000 if I am feeling lazy) miles, I am normally a little below the 1/2 way mark on the glass. Haven't had to "top it off" in 30,000 miles. Nothing has exploded yet!

[quickdraw]

'zactly!!!!!!!!!!!

Originally Posted by redduck

No offense, but good lord!!! If they meant for there to be an EXACT amount of oil in the bike, there would be ONE line in the site glass...

The oil needs to be between the upper and lower marks while the bike is upright. I keep my bike on its rear stand all the time (takes less space in my small garage) so the level as read on the rear stand has always been my reference point. Before riding, I give it a quick look. When changing, on the rear stand, I replace the oil to about 2/3 of the site glass (or just below the upper mark) and ride. By the time I hit 2000 (or 3000 if I am feeling lazy) miles, I am normally a little below the 1/2 way mark on the glass. Haven't had to "top it off" in 30,000 miles. Nothing has exploded yet!