Overheating

dlb · #1 (**permalink**) 04-17-2006, 04:50 PM

As temperatures here are now hitting 80+ I've found my 1000DS is overheating, up to 250+ degrees. I don't believe it's a faulty sensor. I've changed the oil and checked the lines to and from the oil cooler. The only mods I made over the winter were a lightened flywheel and custom power commander map. Any ideas? Thanks

galaxy · #2 (**permalink**) 04-17-2006, 05:22 PM

That's not overheating, but I personally don't like to see much more than that. That's in traffic right? Remember, you're on an air cooled bike. No foward motion, no cooling. These bikes don't like to sit. Heck, the 4v liquid cooled bikes don't like to sit for that matter. Gotta keep that baby movin. Like I said though, 250 hasn't hurt anything and no cause for alarm. I've seen 272 once on mine. Didn't like that at all. But still didn't hurt anything.

TripleDuck · #3 (**permalink**) 04-17-2006, 06:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by galaxy

That's not overheating, but I personally don't like to see much more than that. That's in traffic right? Remember, you're on an air cooled bike. No foward motion, no cooling. These bikes don't like to sit. Heck, the 4v liquid cooled bikes don't like to sit for that matter. Gotta keep that baby movin. Like I said though, 250 hasn't hurt anything and no cause for alarm. I've seen 272 once on mine. Didn't like that at all. But still didn't hurt anything.

250 is no problem - even if the temp gauge was accurate (which most are not). Newer engines and oil are designed for much higher temperatures. I wouldn't be concerned untill ~280F.

See if you can get your hands on an IR pyrometer and find out what the real temperature is when your gage is reading 250.

DanST4 · #4 (**permalink**) 04-17-2006, 08:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TripleDuck

250 is no problem - even if the temp gauge was accurate (which most are not). Newer engines and oil are designed for much higher temperatures. I wouldn't be concerned untill ~280F.

See if you can get your hands on an IR pyrometer and find out what the real temperature is when your gage is reading 250.

Oil life is shortened as the temp goes up. I had an air-cooled Suzuki (with a built-up engine) that would push the oil up to 320F under really bad conditions. It would drop back down to 210F but it would take 20 minutes of open road riding to get there.

When it happened - I just made a mental note of it and changed the oil a little sooner. And I used a good synthetic oil.

dlb · #5 (**permalink**) 04-17-2006, 10:48 PM

Thanks all for the guidance. It does come back in to the 230's when I'm moving.

TripleDuck · #6 (**permalink**) 04-18-2006, 02:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DanST4

Oil life is shortened as the temp goes up. I had an air-cooled Suzuki (with a built-up engine) that would push the oil up to 320F under really bad conditions. It would drop back down to 210F but it would take 20 minutes of open road riding to get there.

When it happened - I just made a mental note of it and changed the oil a little sooner. And I used a good synthetic oil.

I wouldn't argue that - oil performance does deteriorate with increased temperature. However, it starts to deteriorate at distilation which with modern oils normaly happens >350F with dino (higher with synthetics). Like you, I wouldn't think much of 320F and would probably change a little sooner afterward. Letting it cool down before turning it off os a good idea as it helps prevent coking.