Wheel removal How???

mouser830 · #1 (**permalink**) 04-09-2006, 09:00 PM

I know this sounds really dumb. but I need tires and decided to remove my wheels. Easy right?

How does the front come off?

I get the axel out and the fender off and the calipers loose but the callipers will not clear the wheel for removal.

It looks like I have to remove the brake lines and take the calipers with the wheel.

OR

Rremove the brake pads from the calipers so they can clear the wheel.

Please respond only if you for certain know how.

Thank you.

Scott

DesmoBob · #2 (**permalink**) 04-09-2006, 09:19 PM

You don't mention what bike you are working on, but on my '97, the calipers will clear, but only just. It takes a bit of wiggling/finagling (technical terms), but they will come off. You should in NO WAY have to remove brake lines to remove the wheel. Try moving the pads in caliper, towards the outside of the wheel. And then commence to wiggling.

galaxy · #3 (**permalink**) 04-09-2006, 09:52 PM

Well, as stated, don't know what bike you have...BUT, if you have a newer model SS, you sill don't have to remove anything Did not need to remove the fender if that's what you did. (sounded like you did) Once you get the axle out and undo the brake calipers from the mounts (2 bolts on each side) that's it. The calipers will slide off the rotors. Just got to convince it a little and don't be too rough so you don't scratch the wheel, but they do slide off. After that, the wheel should just roll right out.

mouser830 · #4 (**permalink**) 04-09-2006, 11:13 PM

Sorry it is a 99 900SSie.

I looked it over again and in no way will they come off. Looks like I will call my dealer Tuesday.

Thanks

Scott

redduck · #5 (**permalink**) 04-09-2006, 11:19 PM

As stated, no need to remove the fender...

You really should remove the pads though. It makes it very easy to maneuver the calipers off the rotors and free of the rim if the pads are out. You can do it with out removing the pads, but it is a PITA, and you will surly scratch those nice rims in the process.

You didn't ask how to put the wheel back on... In my opinion, that is the more complex of the two.

Place the wheel and axle into the forks. Thread on the axle nut to just a little tighter than hand tight. Torque the pinch bolts opposite the nut to spec (right side sitting on the bike). Take the bike off the front stand putting the weight on the front wheel. Bounce the front suspension a few times to settle everything. While the bike is still on the ground, put just a bit of torque on the wheel nut side pinch bolts. Tighten the wheel nut to spec. Then tighten the wheel nut side pinch bolts to spec.

Raise the bike again and reinstall the calipers and pads. This is also a good time to bleed the brakes and change the fluid.

The installation directions assume you have a late model SS with the larger hollow axle!!

mouser830 · #6 (**permalink**) 04-10-2006, 01:55 AM

GOT IT

Put painters tape on the rim and jocky'd it around, thanks guys

NOW NEW TIRES. The 99' has only 1800 miles on it and the OEM tires although have great tread are hard as a brick. ( I bought it last summer with 850 miles on it).

I am installing new timing belts as well.

Scott

DesmoBob · #7 (**permalink**) 04-10-2006, 02:01 AM

Congrats! We told you so...

chris900ssie · #8 (**permalink**) 04-10-2006, 10:54 AM

I always take the pads out! a good chance to check em and copperslip the backs and clean the calipers!

a two birds one set of dirty fingernails approach!

Chris

rickr · #9 (**permalink**) 04-11-2006, 01:48 AM

Chris900
Do you mean copper antisieze between the pad and puck? I have a vibration issue with the rear brake on the SS.
THANKS!

DesmoBob · #10 (**permalink**) 04-11-2006, 01:55 AM

Cut a piece out of an aluminum soda/beer can the approx size and shape of the pad; install between pad and caliper = noise gone. Seriously, it worked for me on my Monster and my SS.

boom boom · #11 (**permalink**) 04-11-2006, 02:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DesmoBob

Cut a piece out of an aluminum soda/beer can the approx size and shape of the pad; install between pad and caliper = noise gone. Seriously, it worked for me on my Monster and my SS.

It is stuff like this that gives me pause for reason to get down on my knees and thank the Gods for Speedzilla....An unimaginable source of info and advice on all things two wheeled.....

DesmoBob · #12 (**permalink**) 04-11-2006, 02:47 AM

I feel exactly the same way. Especially because I got the idea from someone else here on 'Zilla!

chris900ssie · #13 (**permalink**) 04-11-2006, 12:22 PM

YEAH!

copper-anti sieze-slip gloop! (not too much!)

keeps everthing tip top and sqauwk free!

Chris