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07-19-2009, 05:46 AM
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996
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Join Date: Apr 2009
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1999 996
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07-19-2009, 09:54 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Corona del Mar, CA
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Joshua,
You really don't need to split that figure and add it to each side. You can use two different shims to combine total measurement needed. Just put the thicker of the two on the ride side end of the crank.......
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07-20-2009, 02:10 AM
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996
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Western Colorado USA
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Thanks man,
I'm just documenting the math for posterity, one of my original shims is a 2.1mm, I'll just use that and make up the difference on the other side.
Why can the clutch side take the fatter shim?
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1999 996
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07-20-2009, 04:26 AM
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Just going by the book..... they state: in the event of two different sized shims, put the thicker on the right end of the crank. Didn't state exactly why........
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07-21-2009, 11:15 PM
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996
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Western Colorado USA
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916duc- I received those shims today, thank you sir. I just had to lap off .06mm from the smaller of the two and combine that with the 2.1mm that I had, not bad at all, I guess this is just more proof that the SKFs were wrong 
I assume you got the dinero, let me know if not.
Nice packaging for the shims by the way...
I'm glad that the post office didn't sniff these out thinking that we were trying to smuggle tobacco across state lines 
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1999 996
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07-22-2009, 12:17 AM
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L O L ......
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07-27-2009, 01:14 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 916duc
Just going by the book..... they state: in the event of two different sized shims, put the thicker on the right end of the crank. Didn't state exactly why........
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I think it had to do with the older style engines with the helical cut timing gears creating thrust loads on the crank.
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07-27-2009, 01:33 AM
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Funny thing is I found myself doing the same thing this weekend....I have been swaping over internals to a new motor after my cases cracked in half. Anyway good news for me is I did not need to re-shim anything during the swap, everthing was dead on!
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08-07-2009, 12:40 AM
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I'm way late to this party, and I didn't read every single word so I'm probably repeating something.
Seems like a bad idea to me to use aftermarket crank bearings. With those you really don't know what preload to use, and you might need wacky shims (I think you did?). Glad to see you got stock ones. You know they are going to work. The extra money is worth the peace of mind and not having to do it again later.
Then again, the Ducati spec for crank preload is stupidly high, in my opinion (if you do the math on metal expansion). Apparently others agree. I set my 996 around .008". Also, I saw you measuring case halves like the manual says, that's hooey. Just borrow skinny shims and measure end float (I think you did this), then do the math from there.
I had to change the steel case inserts for the main bearings on mine. Putting in the bearings was a total snap though. Set the oven for around 300, put the cases in there a half hour or so. Put the bearings in the freezer overnight. They literally drop right in, as everyone is saying.
Are copper base gaskets really a good idea? Seems like they could deform slowly over time? Head gaskets seem like a decent idea, although I still used stock ones.
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08-07-2009, 06:49 PM
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996
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Western Colorado USA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acruhl
Then again, the Ducati spec for crank preload is stupidly high, in my opinion (if you do the math on metal expansion). Apparently others agree. I set my 996 around .008".
My factory manual says .15mm(.006") for pre-load
I had to change the steel case inserts for the main bearings on mine. Putting in the bearings was a total snap though. Set the oven for around 300.
The initial time I heated the cases up to 100C(212F) per the manual, no problems. When I pulled the SKF's out, I just used a heat gun and a non-contact thermometer, as I had all the other bearings in and didn't want any grease in the oven. This worked fine.
Are copper base gaskets really a good idea? Seems like they could deform slowly over time? Head gaskets seem like a decent idea, although I still used stock ones.
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From what I understand, copper doesn't really have a problem with compressing too much, it will conform to the gasket surfaces, but it's thickness stays the same. I used copper for the base gaskets to get my squish where I wanted it, as I could get them in different thicknesses same as the head gaskets, plus they're reusable a couple of times at least. I plan on pulling the heads off this winter to check on things, and most likely have the cylinders re-plated. I'll measure the gaskets then and see if they have compressed.
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1999 996
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08-08-2009, 04:12 AM
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I think there was a factory bulletin at some point that said to set it to .30mm. I'm not sure if they changed it back yet.
.30mm means that it's almost difficult to turn the crank by hand.
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08-09-2009, 04:19 AM
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I've never had good luck with copper.
A copper gasket w/gasgacinch on the base gasket is a whole different deal than a head gasket though...
I'd suggest calling cometic for a custom thickness head gasket if you need one.
That's what I did....
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08-09-2009, 04:23 PM
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Changing the subject a bit. Those aftermarket crankshims ? What sizes do they come in ? Where can i buy some and do they have the chamfer in them like the OE ones ?
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www.hypertrick.net
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08-10-2009, 01:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris steedman
Changing the subject a bit. Those aftermarket crankshims ? What sizes do they come in ? Where can i buy some and do they have the chamfer in them like the OE ones ?
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I'm not seeing anything on their site suggesting so. So if not aware it could bugger ones day while sitting on the crank journal radius. 
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08-10-2009, 04:30 AM
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996
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Join Date: Apr 2009
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No chamfer on those shims, had to cut it in.
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1999 996
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08-11-2009, 05:55 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Photon
No chamfer on those shims, had to cut it in.
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Perfect!
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