i spent the new year's weekend setting the suspension of my bike. one problem tho... with the ride height number from jason @ section8, the carbon belly pan i have is hitting the rear tire. is this a common problem? not that it matter much since i already cut the back section of the belly pan , but i just wanna double check if i got everything right. i haven't tested the bike yet but it does look much higher than what i had before especially with the bike on the rear stand. i'm bringing it to the track this coming weekend. we'll see how it does.
Had the same problem with Jasons numbers. The cause was his numbers are too high. The ecentric was in the right position. There might be variations in the subframes so his numbers might be right for some, but mine was way too high with my alum subframe. His numbers might be right for the longer mag swingarm too, that would get the tire off the belly pan. I know some bellly pans are made for the longer arm as well. I went with the ride height tool from European Cycle Specialties and made the adjustament correctly. I know alot of people think highly of Jason on this board but he gave me some stupid advice once. I was trying to get a adjustable fuel regulator from him, he told me to save my money and just put the stock one in a vise, squezz it a little and it will flow more fuel. To say the least I went with the correct one.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MKIA »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I know alot of people think highly of Jason on this board but he gave me some stupid advice once. I was trying to get a adjustable fuel regulator from him, he told me to save my money and just put the stock one in a vise, squezz it a little and it will flow more fuel. To say the least I went with the correct one.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Actualy I told you I didn't carry them..............................
And suggested an option is to crush you existing one in a vice a little to increase the pressure. Which works.
How is that bad advice? I was just trying to save you a few bucks
jason gives practical advice. he can sell you a 600 dollar set of rear-sets if you'd like, but its much more practical to get something cheaper and more common, and you may have to fab just a bit to make it fit.
not all ducati guys shit money, and i think jason understands that and tries to help everyone out while keeping that in mind..
As for Jason's ride height details he states that they are an approx, I am sure if you would like his undivided attention you could call him and he could charge for each phone call, I mean lets face it He is giving a general guidline to save everyone from spending $$ on the tool's.
Speaking as someone who has raced and has had to scrimp every single last penny any help on saving money is appreciated. As for the fuel pressure regulator quite frankly I do not see that you can come down on someone for giving you a free solution to a problem, leave money in your pocket toward fuel and tires, I agree with you there is a right way to do things, There is also a wrong way, but there is also the Bike racing get it working no beans in the budget way, this is what most racers subscribe to,
In closing Jason may be running a dealership but he is a racer, so maybe for everyones sake bear that in mind, if a zip tie and duct tape will fix it and let you get back out of the pit then thats what it takes.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mental998 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Maybe he could show some pics on how to do the fuel regulator trick. </TD></TR></TABLE>
It's as simple as it sounds. You just put it in a vice and crush the regulator a touch. It reduces the volume behind the diaphram and increases the pressure. Adjustable ones do it the same way, but they have a screw that acts on the back of the diaphram.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MKIA »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I was trying to get a adjustable fuel regulator from him, he told me to save my money and just put the stock one in a vise, squezz it a little and it will flow more fuel. To say the least I went with the correct one.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Squeeze it in a vice!?!?! You're right, that Jason's a real idiot -- everyone knows you just beat the regulator in a bit with a ballpeen hammer!
The above said procedures was or could be performed in the privacy of ones own garage! Of course under the watchful eyes of Master Jason. Ok one of them was closed! Cloaking the special use of the said and mentioned Ball Peen Hammer, well I think it was a small sledge hammer to be correct. I did not want this knowledge passed to others, as the increase in fuel pressures would create Havoc in the Ducati Community. As it is a free performance gain, when used in a controlled performance environment. One thing that was not mentioned was the proper selection of the correct size drift that transmitted the focused energy to a defined point of impact upon the said regulator. Note! All was performed while the regulator was installed in the tank. EMT's And Local Fire Dept. were notified in event of an explosion. After replacing the tank we noticed a net gain of 3 rwhp.
As indicated by our Butt Dyno.
Note this is not for the weak at heart. You smashing a 298.00 us dollar item. Please leave this to a professional. Send them To Jason at Section8Superbikes. I'm sure you will recieve the same gains as we did that evening.
Thanks! now i have one other thing to do this weekend.
Jason, i think i know why i had to cut the belly pan. it was a corse item, made to suit the bigger exhaust and longer swingarm. and since my swingarm is standard, common sense told me i have to cut it. i asked a local shop here yesterday and they confirmed that they sometimes have to do the same thing.
as for the position of the eccentric, it is around 5.30 and i run it like you do.. sloppy loose i guess the 604mm distance you told was correct on teh bike. i measured the height adjuster and it was 275 on teh dot... and i think either jeff koch or buckelew pointed out this number before.
anyway.. thanks a bunch guys.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mental998 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Maybe he could show some pics on how to do the fuel regulator trick. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Hmm, 275 mm between what and what? That sounds like quite a large number for a rear ride height, if you're using a standard edge-type gauge. Or is that the length of the adjuster bar?
O.K., makes more sense than a ride height number. That doesn't sound way off. But still, it's tough to compare numbers to anyone else's without a standard tool like this:
With a standardized number, you can talk to Jeff Nash, Bruce Meyers, Scott at Desmotosport, Nick at Munroe Motors, etc. etc. (all folks who've raced or run race teams at the national level), and get a better feel for where you are. Measuring to the tail is fine for a ballpark number, or just for keeping track of your own changes, but you loose the ability to compare notes since most tuners use the gauge.
i hear ya jeff. i still have a few things to do before i spend the money on that particular tool. believe it or not, even the dealer here doesn't have one
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MKIA »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Had the same problem with Jasons numbers. The cause was his numbers are too high. The ecentric was in the right position. There might be variations in the subframes so his numbers might be right for some, but mine was way too high with my alum subframe. His numbers might be right for the longer mag swingarm too, that would get the tire off the belly pan. I know some bellly pans are made for the longer arm as well. I went with the ride height tool from European Cycle Specialties and made the adjustament correctly. </TD></TR></TABLE>
MKIA, I have the same problem with Jason's numbers and alum subframe, but no ride height tool. What is your measurement from hub nut to exhaust hanger bolt now that you've set it up this way?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by injected »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
MKIA, I have the same problem with Jason's numbers and alum subframe, but no ride height tool. What is your measurement from hub nut to exhaust hanger bolt now that you've set it up this way?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Which exhaust hanger bolt are you using? Did you push the subframe down all the way?
New Ride Height: belly pan hitting tire
, but i just wanna double check if i got everything right. i haven't tested the bike yet but it does look much higher than what i had before especially with the bike on the rear stand. i'm bringing it to the track this coming weekend. we'll see how it does.
Ok one of them was closed! Cloaking the special use of the said and mentioned Ball Peen Hammer, well I think it was a small sledge hammer to be correct. I did not want this knowledge passed to others, as the increase in fuel pressures would create Havoc in the Ducati Community. As it is a free performance gain, when used in a controlled performance environment. One thing that was not mentioned was the proper selection of the correct size drift that transmitted the focused energy to a defined point of impact upon the said regulator. Note! All was performed while the regulator was installed in the tank. EMT's And Local Fire Dept. were notified in event of an explosion. 
After replacing the tank we noticed a net gain of 3 rwhp.
Linear Mode
