Monster clutch issue

[superbike2001]

Hey all,

I took delivery of the new monster Saturday.

Now I know the bike needs some work, and I am cool with that. That's why I purchased it cheep. Anyway it's a 2001 900ie with about 8k on the clock.

I slapped a tag on it and took it for a ride. Wile on the ride the clutch started to slip and progressively became worse. I limped home and took off the clutch cover, and the pressure plate. I found the thrust /throw out bearing (The one in the pressure plate) was super hot and it had seized. The clutch push rod looks ok, as does the rest of the clutch. The plates all look new. The previous owner did mention that the clutch (Barrnet) was fairly new.

Also there looks to be some sort of shim on the push rod that's not in the parts fiche? I have not measured the stack yet. I guess my question is this...



1) Could the seized pressure plate bearing (#14 on below pic) have caused the clutch to slip? I think not but I had to ask.



2) And does anyone know of a metal shim that goes on the clutch push rod. See pic below. Item #26 is a rubber O-Ring. There is a metal shim in its place on my clutch. And there is one externally. I don't think these metal shims should be here. The superbike clutch is the same. No shims in it?



Any help would be welcome THANKS!



I will measure the stack tonight. I am also going to replace the bearing (of course).

[MOTO BISTRO]

There should not be any shims on the clutch push-rod. This maybe the cause of your clutch slipping. The Barnett clutches had problems when they first made the aluminum clutch packs. The "old style" clutch plates are identified as having the friction material all the way around the clutch plates with no separation in them, and are very!!! thick plated. The friction material on these plates will, sooner or later, fall off due to the chemical treating process. They actually replaced mine for free and I have been using the new still for over 4 years now. I have had no problems with the new plates, as I have used them in both street and race bikes. If they are properly installed/shimmed, you should have no problems with the clutch slipping if the rider knows how to use a dry clutch correctly. I recommend you disassemble the clutch entirely. This way you can re- lock-tite/torque the clutch basket and hub correctly. Check clutch plate condition, clutch driving tab to clutch basket clearance, over-all clutch basket condition, push-rod condition, grease push-rod O-rings/clutch hub splines/push-rod ends, check surface of pressure plate and clean all asbestos. The amount of asbestos/dust in your clutch will allow your clutch to slip. This can be solved by a vented clutch cover after proper installation of the clutch assembly, and having a rider that is use too/knows how to use a dry clutch system properly.

[superbike2001]

Thanks for the reply!!!!

I thought the shims were suspect!

[MOTO BISTRO]

Originally Posted by superbike2001

Thanks for the reply!!!!

I thought the shims were suspect!

I just thought Id check to see if you have it up and running yet.

[superbike2001]

Not yet. I am awaiting the arival of the new presure plate bearing. I am almost afraid to run it after only replacing the seized bearing. I am going to call section 8 today and get a new pus rod, rod holder/guide and o-rings. I have a new slave on the way also.

The stack mesured 38mm. It looks ok. I want to also remove the drum and the basket and re-torque everything.

[Beyote]

I am kinda confused.

What is the difference in using/operating a bike with a wet clutch and one with a dry clutch.
I was unaware there was any specific technique in the dry clutch, but am willing to listen if there is.