<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ronn &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How did you do the oil cooler relocation? What is your source for bracket/oil lines?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ronn - The oil cooler is from a '96 Monster. I purchased the upper valve cover, lines and cooler off of a bike being parted out. Everything bolted right up with no problems....

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CaliDuc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Where did you source your plug wires from?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Caliduc - The plugs wires came with the Dyna ignition coil that I purchased from Chris Kelley at CA-cycleworks. From your question, I hope that I can source them on their own.....

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dutch900 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">to chaas67: Okay, I need more information on the garage door opener mod!!!! (Now that's something I could use.) </TD></TR></TABLE>

Dutch900 - Grabbed a spare garage opener and did the following.
- removed the circuit board from inside
- unsoldered the micro switch and soldered in a piece of wire, now its 'on' all the time
- replace the battery connector with a couple of short leads

I then went to Radio Shack and purchased a car adapter that steps 12v down to 9v, and a project box to house the whole thing. ( My garage door opener needed a 9v source )

- open the car adapter and remove the circuit board inside
- solder the pwr input leads, of the garage opener, to the 9V output of the car adapter
- I then replaced the positive and negative input leads of the car adapter with two leads. These will be connected to the hi-beam wire and grounded to the bike respectivily.

At this point you should have your garage door opener with its input leads soldered to the 9V output leads of the car adapter.

Take the input leads of the car adapter and connect the positive to the hi-beam wire. ( I can get you the color code of the wire tonight - don't recall at this time ) and the negative lead to the battery or bike.

When you press the flash button or turn on your brights you will then energize the garage door opener and because you replaced the button with a piece of wire it will be active.

I put the whole thing in the project box and filled it with silicone to protect it from the weather.

The range isn't any worse than it was before, I can open the door from the end of the drive. YMMV

I ran with this setup all last year and I have ridden with my brights on all day, ie the opener is also active. It doesn't appear have any ill effect on the opener and no I haven't noticed any garage doors opening as I pass. The car adapter is a fused ciruit and I kept that in place, if it blows I'll just have to tear it apart to fix.

In the photo, you'll notice the LED and the 8 pin DIP switch. The LED was my way of confirming that electricity is getting to the opener portion of the circuit. The DIP switch is for the coding of the opener.

All told, it cost me about $25, much cheaper than the solutions offered by companies selling this for 'Harleys' and it works for my garage. It only took me an hour of time and 2 beers.

Damn that was a long quick explanation !!!! If you have any other questions just drop me an email at chris.haas5@verizon.net.

Cheers